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I think the bigger question is did you come from a diesel background before this truck? I too had similar concerns when I first got mine, but as I got more and more familiar with this particular engine, and a few 6BT's and IDI's before that, I realized these are very different animals compared...

These valves are garbage - the sensor in them mostly. I've done two in 11 months. If they're going to fail that often, then let the aftermarket cheapie-ones provide. I'm sick of dealership fleecing for little return. My last valve was 60 bucks.

I seriously doubt FCA gets ANY recommendations from the Germans about their transmissions - I pulled my pan at around 120k and found plenty of wear debris to warrant the trans service and fresh fluid. Everyone has their own acceptable tolerance to wear - but we're driving ticking timebombs in...

Small update... no clue what the deal was, but the new socket works 100% fine now. It's almost as if the new one joined the neighborhood and the truck was like "oh? New neighbor... okay then..." :ROFLMAO:

I recently did it on mine. Coming from a BMW background, the "lifetime" fluid to me is somewhere in the neighborhood of 60-100k depending on how it's driven. The ZF service is super easy. Feel free to take a look at how I did it along with a pan upgrade.

Welcome by the way. When you say it won't start - what's it doing? No crank at all? Stuck cranking constantly until he flips the key to the off position? Can he hear the lift pump with the key to the "on" position, but not the "start" one? I'm not 100% on if what happened to mine is common...

How's your voltage and amperage at the actual battery terminal? These things misbehave all the time with awkward voltage - there's even a voltage sensor on the positive terminal. What I've discovered so far with my 4th gen is the historical "Dodge Electrical problems" aren't really that severe...

I typically run a 12v cooler in the back seat on the short side of the split bench behind the driver's seat - it's been there for about two years now, works faithfully all the time - plug it into the rear of the console where the 12v auxiliary power connector is. Sometimes I swap it for a twin...

Like before with my 3-way heater valve situation, the "First" error on the list was the problem that caused ALL of the other ones. Turns out the coolant temp sensor was the issue, the one that's right under the thermostat housing - fairly easy to change. Haven't had the issue ever since.

Kinda update? Something new happened the past two days - I've been getting a strange low idle for a few seconds, yesterday it did it and the electric fans kicked on high. Check engine light, and -- for "Coolant temp" on the center display with the needle above it bottomed out. Code was coolant...

Did you try barring the engine over to make sure it isn't seized? Even the best of us get an oddity like that every so often. I built an engine a couple years back that literally seized 3 seconds after I fired it up - pressure was fine, everything was fine. Turns out my machine shop had...

I think my original thread was caught up in the SPAM-exodus. No problem - I'll try to make this one a little less wordy. Some of you know I had the 5v reference issue, I took every connector I could find, cleaned them, re-applied di-electric grease to them, and reconnected them. While I was in...

I went ahead and used an OE set. I thought about alan-headed cap bolts, but fall back on the stockers. Video on the process here :

Just curious if any of you may have experienced this. The intercooler pipe on the passenger side that has two 90 degree bends in it and eventually goes to the throttle body on mine likes to "push" the hose off the intercooler. I suspect the clamp is worn or failing, but it never completely pops...

I've got another update for you all on this subject... turns out the WIN module was probably okay, but then again, it's plastic and 9 years old in my case so replacing it wasn't a terrible idea. Tonight after 5 different attempts at DIY kits over the past two years, I landed on something that...

Does anyone know the size of the transmission pan bolts? I'm about to tackle my pan/filter change, and upgraded to an aluminum pan and thought I'd like to throw some new stainless bolts at it to replace the original, and what appears to be quite rusty ones. I found one source that claims...

A few weeks back I had an issue that required me to disconnect the battery several times and reset everything while I did basic troubleshooting and electrical maintenance. Before I had done this, my Ramboxes would lock and unlock with the keyfob. Ever since the repair and battery reconnect, the...

If it's new, I'd imagine a Gen 3? What I'm curious about is, if Stellantis owns VM Motori, and Mopar has done a complete 360 on the electric push from the last administration - if the ole Pasta-diesel makes a comeback... fully deleted and tuned right out of the box. :unsure:

So.... after a few weeks of jiggling the fob, and playing the odds... I finally just went and did a thing... Quick and easy job.

There's a bunch of ideas about a similar situation as yours here : https://www.ram1500diesel.com/threads/alternator-wiring.73924/ From the sound of things, our 4th gens charging is still dictated by the ECU - like a "command" or "Demand" based on other factors. There's a simple diagram in that...