Could be the sensor bad, can’t remember what year they did away with it… if you had one it would be front of drivers side on the head with a 5/8” rubber line coming off it and going back to your intake tube preturbo. Could have came loose from that connection or at the sensor itself. Or oiled up...
My problem ended up being a transmission tuning issue. Had to reset clutch values a few times but that code isn’t for a map issue it’s for the crank case vent system. Do you have a oil catch can installed?
Glad to hear it! I did have another leak but it was from the shotty work my body shop did. They replaced my cab roof and one of the pinch welds wasn’t sealed properly causing the water to fill that space also but it was a fluke from a repair so I never felt the need to mention it till now lol
As far as I know, cause I have the same leaking area, no one makes aftermarket. You have to buy the whole oem piece and undo hose clamp for the chinsy pos to come apart and use just the turbo henn connection and 90
Oh and the plastic “silencer” in the hot pipe going down to the intercooler. It’s held on with hose clamps. I’d say that could have a crack or failed joint. Just thinking of the free and easier things to look at.
Typically a boost leak will get worse as the boost builds pressure. If you have a pin hole water leak in your hose, it dribbles out when you shut the hose off and it loses pressure, but when you apply pressure the stream grows. The rubber seal at the turbo outlet for the hot side pipe can hold...
We don’t have wastegates as our turbos are vgt meaning they have vanes inside that open and close to control boost. Your intake shouldn’t get anymore soot than what is there now at this time since the egr is no longer recircing exhaust gasses back to the intake. Now, the oil residue will...
The crank case vent dumps back into the intake tube before the turbo, so I would venture to say the tube leak was the culprit! Mine has some slop near the turbo outlet
If you work it correctly it should be able to do nearly everything the dealer can do. It’s a very powerful setup for a fraction of the cost. I have cleared codes with it. The main hang up you’re going to have is the security gateway module crap. But that is typically an easy work around.
If your...
A cheap Samsung or android based tablet and 30$ elm 327 adapter, and 50$ alfaobd app is dealer grade software. You’ll need a security gateway bypass cable for your vehicle also. Unless you get an autel with fca capability then it’s 50$ a year to avoid bypassing the security gateway module
That tube did the same thing on mine. I just crammed it back in. Not sure it’s original mounting into the sensor but I wasn’t trying to deal with removing it and it being a problem. Pretty sure it’s safe to eliminate though.
More than likely the rear pinion bearing. Mine does it primarily when I’m coasting and gets louder at high speeds and quieter as I slow down. Drove me nuts wondering but 70k and it’s still holding on lol
I believe the oil is normal to a point as the crank case vent dumps back into the intake but I pulled my turbo at 182k and it’s plenty sloppy compared to the new one going back in. No codes (tuned) but I kept getting the dummy lightning bolt and limp mode. Still putting truck back together so no...
I was goi g to chime in it could be cabin air filter. Certain trucks came with them, others didn’t but you can buy a mopar kit with filter and door. Would be worth checking that. My 2014 Laramie didn’t have one, I didn’t add it either and it still throws a pile of air.
My egt 1 always reads correctly, 2-3-4 always are a consistent readout but it’s like -600f or something lol that sensor is like 300$+. I have a new one that’s reading 216.6 at 60ish degrees.