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Any EGR Delete Tips or Tricks?

C

chrisr938

New Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2018
Messages
16
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Truck Year
2015
Hello all. My 2015 EcoDiesel is at the dealer right now for a P04DB code and noticeable coolant loss. They called earlier and said it’s a leaking EGR cooler which will cost a whopping $2289 + tax to replace. (And the part is backordered, just to add a little salt to the wound). I told them no way, and I’m going to pick the truck up before they close today. I called GDE and talked to them about what I needed to do to get rid of the EGR cooler and ordered parts. Altogether I spent around $1400 for a GDE tune, Sasquatch Parts competition delete kit, and a Edge Insight CTS2 to replace my old Scan Gauge 2.

Does anyone have any experience with the Sasquatch kit? Are there any special tools I will need? Any general tips or advice is welcome.

I look forward to getting the parts in and getting the truck back to work.
 
Following this thread....as this exact thing will be in my future! Thanks for asking the question.
 
chrisr938 said:
I did look at that one, just went with the Sasquatch kit because that’s what GDE recommended to me over the phone.
Click to expand...

I will be going with the Sasquatch kit also. It seems more complete to me.....just looking at the pics on their website.

I haven’t found anyone that installed it before though.
 
A short T35 torx socket with at least 3/8 drive well be very helpful.
 
Got everything buttoned back up this afternoon and drove the truck for the first time in a week. I was a little startled when the truck started and immediately a message popped up telling me that the DPF was at 90% and to get my butt on the highway. I complied and a regen started, it probably took 15 miles to complete.

The delete took some time, probably a little more than I figured. The T40 or T35 (maybe model year dependent?) was an absolute pain in the rear end for me, and it’s existence seems like overkill. However, it is there, and it’s securing the cooler onto a bracket that’s mounted on the back of block. The Sasquatch kit came with all the necessary pieces and everything fit well, just as it was designed. I checked for coolant leaks twice after driving, and will probably do so again for the next few days. No codes, no coolant loss, no lack of cabin heat, so as of right now, everything seems good.

Thanks to Sasquatch Parts and Green Diesel Engineering for helping promote the aftermarket for this great platform.
 
chrisr938 said:
Got everything buttoned back up this afternoon and drove the truck for the first time in a week. I was a little startled when the truck started and immediately a message popped up telling me that the DPF was at 90% and to get my butt on the highway. I complied and a regen started, it probably took 15 miles to complete.

The delete took some time, probably a little more than I figured. The T40 or T35 (maybe model year dependent?) was an absolute pain in the rear end for me, and it’s existence seems like overkill. However, it is there, and it’s securing the cooler onto a bracket that’s mounted on the back of block. The Sasquatch kit came with all the necessary pieces and everything fit well, just as it was designed. I checked for coolant leaks twice after driving, and will probably do so again for the next few days. No codes, no coolant loss, no lack of cabin heat, so as of right now, everything seems good.

Thanks to Sasquatch Parts and Green Diesel Engineering for helping promote the aftermarket for this great platform.
Click to expand...

That’s great news. Did the Sasquatch kit have good instructions?
 
chrisr938 said:
That have a pretty detailed, 28 page PDF. So, yes, I will say they were good instructions.
Click to expand...

Awesome!!! I have no doubt that I can do this when the time comes myself, it’s just nice to know for a fact that it can be done by the backyard mechanic.
 
Yes please take some pics and give us an update. ✌
 
How did that T40 come off?! I've been wrestling with it all day. The bit seats fine, but the thing is just stuck and I'm scared of stripping the thing. I've been using pent rating lube, small break wrench, and a flex drive. Won't budge...
 
I didn't do those exact ones but on some of the rusted bolts I took off try to tighten it first. Sometimes it breaks that seal that is keeping it from loosening. Worth a shot.
 
Correct me if I’m wrong, but if you’re doing an EGR delete, isn’t the cooler pointless? So in other words leave the PITA torx bolt in and just cut the bracket that holds the cooler itself....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wrestled the T40 long enough. Reached back to snap a picture of it and it's stripped. This is the EGR being held on the bracket only. I should have just cut it and saved my time.
 

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