I mean if you have the space and time, parting it out makes the most sense. A lot of the second gen guys would pay for the interior and the rears/frame someone could use. Shit the computers alone you could bring at least a grand in selling them used. I paid 200 for a used tail light pre Covid...
When mine failed, the alternator locked up, and I could spin the motor backwards, but not in proper rotation. Pooped the belt off and it fired right up. Learned that after a new starter AND OEM battery. Not a cheap lesson for me lol
Unplug the glow plug relay on the passenger side of the engine bay. Can’t remember which one of mine failed but it broke off trying to remove. Found that trick out and just a fair warning, if it’s below 35 plug it in. The colder it gets the more it hates starting lol
If you have the security gateway module, you would need to bypass it for it to work, if it’s pre sgwm then it should work fine if the user had luck with it
Could be the sensor bad, can’t remember what year they did away with it… if you had one it would be front of drivers side on the head with a 5/8” rubber line coming off it and going back to your intake tube preturbo. Could have came loose from that connection or at the sensor itself. Or oiled up...
My problem ended up being a transmission tuning issue. Had to reset clutch values a few times but that code isn’t for a map issue it’s for the crank case vent system. Do you have a oil catch can installed?
Glad to hear it! I did have another leak but it was from the shotty work my body shop did. They replaced my cab roof and one of the pinch welds wasn’t sealed properly causing the water to fill that space also but it was a fluke from a repair so I never felt the need to mention it till now lol
As far as I know, cause I have the same leaking area, no one makes aftermarket. You have to buy the whole oem piece and undo hose clamp for the chinsy pos to come apart and use just the turbo henn connection and 90
Oh and the plastic “silencer” in the hot pipe going down to the intercooler. It’s held on with hose clamps. I’d say that could have a crack or failed joint. Just thinking of the free and easier things to look at.
Typically a boost leak will get worse as the boost builds pressure. If you have a pin hole water leak in your hose, it dribbles out when you shut the hose off and it loses pressure, but when you apply pressure the stream grows. The rubber seal at the turbo outlet for the hot side pipe can hold...
We don’t have wastegates as our turbos are vgt meaning they have vanes inside that open and close to control boost. Your intake shouldn’t get anymore soot than what is there now at this time since the egr is no longer recircing exhaust gasses back to the intake. Now, the oil residue will...
The crank case vent dumps back into the intake tube before the turbo, so I would venture to say the tube leak was the culprit! Mine has some slop near the turbo outlet