Beyond Odd Power Gremlin

[SeanPwnery]

I typically run a 12v cooler in the back seat on the short side of the split bench behind the driver's seat - it's been there for about two years now, works faithfully all the time - plug it into the rear of the console where the 12v auxiliary power connector is. Sometimes I swap it for a twin piston 12v compressor to top off and air a tire or two.

One day, I decided to do 6 tires across 3 vehicles. That's when this began. During the 6th and final tire, the compressor shut off mid-fill. Walked over to the truck and the adapter ejected itself out of the socket. The tip got so hot from amperage draw that it melted the end and the spring that held the fuse launched it. Okay, small mishap, replaced the end, made a note to only do two tires at a time max.

Plugged the cooler back in, and no joy. It has an LCD panel on it so I can tell easily when it starts up, however it was dark. Checked the 20A fuse under the hood in case I overloaded it when the compressor plug went all Ejecto-Seato-Cuz, but it was fine. I decided to pop out the socket itself and test for power at the connector. 12V, climbs to 13 or so with the truck running, so I assume the wiring that leads to the connector is good as well. Checked the barrel of the outlet itself, no burns, and it appears these are designed to be all-metal so there was nothing distorted. Plugged it back in, hooked up the cooler - and shocker ... it worked. Drove to the grocery store ready to make the weekly run, as I loaded up, noticed the LCD panel as off again... lame.

So a few days later, I went ahead and replaced the socket itself, found a nice kit that included a tool to pop out the cover/grommet that snaps it into the rear of the console. It made thjs about a 2 minute job, plugged in the cooler, and joy of joys, the LCD panel lit up again. Drove to the grocery store, loaded up, the panel was lit, I thought "Great, fixed it." The next day, no LCD panel again.

Here's what's strange, if I pop out the socket, unplug it, plug it back in, then plug in the cooler, it works - but what in the world is disabling it within a day? Sometimes within a single trip? These don't use relays do they? Any ideas?

If you guys need the replacement socket and tool for yours, this is the one I bought : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8TBRWP - this for the REAR console one with two active pins in the connector, not the 3-prong like you'll commonly find I assume for the front one.

 

[ok3]

I typically run a 12v cooler in the back seat on the short side of the split bench behind the driver's seat - it's been there for about two years now, works faithfully all the time - plug it into the rear of the console where the 12v auxiliary power connector is. Sometimes I swap it for a twin piston 12v compressor to top off and air a tire or two.

One day, I decided to do 6 tires across 3 vehicles. That's when this began. During the 6th and final tire, the compressor shut off mid-fill. Walked over to the truck and the adapter ejected itself out of the socket. The tip got so hot from amperage draw that it melted the end and the spring that held the fuse launched it. Okay, small mishap, replaced the end, made a note to only do two tires at a time max.

Plugged the cooler back in, and no joy. It has an LCD panel on it so I can tell easily when it starts up, however it was dark. Checked the 20A fuse under the hood in case I overloaded it when the compressor plug went all Ejecto-Seato-Cuz, but it was fine. I decided to pop out the socket itself and test for power at the connector. 12V, climbs to 13 or so with the truck running, so I assume the wiring that leads to the connector is good as well. Checked the barrel of the outlet itself, no burns, and it appears these are designed to be all-metal so there was nothing distorted. Plugged it back in, hooked up the cooler - and shocker ... it worked. Drove to the grocery store ready to make the weekly run, as I loaded up, noticed the LCD panel as off again... lame.

So a few days later, I went ahead and replaced the socket itself, found a nice kit that included a tool to pop out the cover/grommet that snaps it into the rear of the console. It made thjs about a 2 minute job, plugged in the cooler, and joy of joys, the LCD panel lit up again. Drove to the grocery store, loaded up, the panel was lit, I thought "Great, fixed it." The next day, no LCD panel again.

Here's what's strange, if I pop out the socket, unplug it, plug it back in, then plug in the cooler, it works - but what in the world is disabling it within a day? Sometimes within a single trip? These don't use relays do they? Any ideas?

If you guys need the replacement socket and tool for yours, this is the one I bought : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8TBRWP - this for the REAR console one with two active pins in the connector, not the 3-prong like you'll commonly find I assume for the front one.

As a very very old...remember I drove the navy,s first 1200 mph bird (no computers-no gps) onto the mini conveted angle decks... I jumped into the eco totally blind...I had bought a cream puff 4x4 2014 and an 8k 2020 engine...call the gde people and was told y"you can.t do that"....BUT I had 15K in by then....I decided to "fool" the ecm into thinking it was a 2014 engine...Result?? great driving machine...BUT repeat BUT I still have gremlins..unlike my navy bird where the gremlins were fatal unless handled well, mine are earthbound.. Start and get 1250 rpm "idle" that will only leave after driving a mile?, Shift into blinking light that only leaves after a few tries?, Radio that has no sound untill you shut down and then comes back on dispite your best earlier tries? Yup Never any codes other than "service electronic throttle " when cold return blows off..
The electronics are very interesting..my opinion is the eco is not for the faint hearted..But I love it because it has great fully deleted performance and fuel milage ..while no way above 24 mpg in hilly ground is great to me..and it drives like a limo.
.I would direct wire from battery FUSED to an outlet and totally eliminate the ram wiring.
.I just installed under my offroad front bumper 4 projector lites in frp housings,Thru relay,s fused direct from battery..signal from normal hi beams thru relays so absolutly no drain on ram wiring .The wire in these or any new trucks is junk..When you look at the well made wiring in old cars? This new krap will melt and fuse in the wrong places when overloaded or a little old and the plastisizer leaves the guage was marginal when new so after a few years it is a problem waiting to happen.
Throw in motherbords that are NOT heavy duty, bounce em around, heat em up, and add to the ticking bomb.
I see my eco like a porshe carrera 1955 model I drove..a lot of fun. but like a fancy woman expensive to keep and handle with care

 

[SeanPwnery]

Small update... no clue what the deal was, but the new socket works 100% fine now. It's almost as if the new one joined the neighborhood and the truck was like "oh? New neighbor... okay then..."

 

[ok3]

Small update... no clue what the deal was, but the new socket works 100% fine now. It's almost as if the new one joined the neighborhood and the truck was like "oh? New neighbor... okay then..."

Glad to hear it!
These trucks are so unique I really like mine ...gremlins and all.
Still working on my 4 projector under offroad bumper upgrade wiring thru relay's-fuses, so only load on truck is to signal relay.
Hi beam signal will power projector hi beam, foglight signal will turn them on. On the bench each pair are set level, so should be a big addition when finisdhed.
Will set a tad below regular lights -so no issue blinding oncoming.