SeanPwnery
Active Member
- Nov 30, 2022
- 134
- 54
- Truck Year
- 2016
I typically run a 12v cooler in the back seat on the short side of the split bench behind the driver's seat - it's been there for about two years now, works faithfully all the time - plug it into the rear of the console where the 12v auxiliary power connector is. Sometimes I swap it for a twin piston 12v compressor to top off and air a tire or two.
One day, I decided to do 6 tires across 3 vehicles. That's when this began. During the 6th and final tire, the compressor shut off mid-fill. Walked over to the truck and the adapter ejected itself out of the socket. The tip got so hot from amperage draw that it melted the end and the spring that held the fuse launched it. Okay, small mishap, replaced the end, made a note to only do two tires at a time max.
Plugged the cooler back in, and no joy. It has an LCD panel on it so I can tell easily when it starts up, however it was dark. Checked the 20A fuse under the hood in case I overloaded it when the compressor plug went all Ejecto-Seato-Cuz, but it was fine. I decided to pop out the socket itself and test for power at the connector. 12V, climbs to 13 or so with the truck running, so I assume the wiring that leads to the connector is good as well. Checked the barrel of the outlet itself, no burns, and it appears these are designed to be all-metal so there was nothing distorted. Plugged it back in, hooked up the cooler - and shocker ... it worked. Drove to the grocery store ready to make the weekly run, as I loaded up, noticed the LCD panel as off again... lame.
So a few days later, I went ahead and replaced the socket itself, found a nice kit that included a tool to pop out the cover/grommet that snaps it into the rear of the console. It made thjs about a 2 minute job, plugged in the cooler, and joy of joys, the LCD panel lit up again. Drove to the grocery store, loaded up, the panel was lit, I thought "Great, fixed it." The next day, no LCD panel again.
Here's what's strange, if I pop out the socket, unplug it, plug it back in, then plug in the cooler, it works - but what in the world is disabling it within a day? Sometimes within a single trip? These don't use relays do they? Any ideas?
If you guys need the replacement socket and tool for yours, this is the one I bought : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8TBRWP - this for the REAR console one with two active pins in the connector, not the 3-prong like you'll commonly find I assume for the front one.
One day, I decided to do 6 tires across 3 vehicles. That's when this began. During the 6th and final tire, the compressor shut off mid-fill. Walked over to the truck and the adapter ejected itself out of the socket. The tip got so hot from amperage draw that it melted the end and the spring that held the fuse launched it. Okay, small mishap, replaced the end, made a note to only do two tires at a time max.
Plugged the cooler back in, and no joy. It has an LCD panel on it so I can tell easily when it starts up, however it was dark. Checked the 20A fuse under the hood in case I overloaded it when the compressor plug went all Ejecto-Seato-Cuz, but it was fine. I decided to pop out the socket itself and test for power at the connector. 12V, climbs to 13 or so with the truck running, so I assume the wiring that leads to the connector is good as well. Checked the barrel of the outlet itself, no burns, and it appears these are designed to be all-metal so there was nothing distorted. Plugged it back in, hooked up the cooler - and shocker ... it worked. Drove to the grocery store ready to make the weekly run, as I loaded up, noticed the LCD panel as off again... lame.
So a few days later, I went ahead and replaced the socket itself, found a nice kit that included a tool to pop out the cover/grommet that snaps it into the rear of the console. It made thjs about a 2 minute job, plugged in the cooler, and joy of joys, the LCD panel lit up again. Drove to the grocery store, loaded up, the panel was lit, I thought "Great, fixed it." The next day, no LCD panel again.
Here's what's strange, if I pop out the socket, unplug it, plug it back in, then plug in the cooler, it works - but what in the world is disabling it within a day? Sometimes within a single trip? These don't use relays do they? Any ideas?
If you guys need the replacement socket and tool for yours, this is the one I bought : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8TBRWP - this for the REAR console one with two active pins in the connector, not the 3-prong like you'll commonly find I assume for the front one.
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