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...but are these temps, what you'd consider "normal?" I was never one to monitor transmission temps, and have known quite a few people who quarter-mile with monsters calling out trans temps far lower than this. This photo was just my normal casual commute home from work - about a 14 mile trip...

I wanted to go this route, but ended up just getting a new OE intake on the cheap. Removed all the swirl valves, but left the actuator in place for the wiring, so all it will do is turn empty shafts. I love the clean lines of the Banks intake, but the new OE one serves the same purpose. I'll...

There's a sensor or probe of some sort that will freak out if you simply block it off. Your best bet is to get an aftermarket tune that simply shuts off the EGR valve. Keep in mind, if you ever take the rig in for service where they may flash your ECU, you'll want to "revert" it back to stock...

My last oil change of Rotella T6 15w40 only gave me 3157 miles... odd? No chunks, no oddities, no bizarre oil pressure numbers. Perhaps this is because of a poorer quality filter? I typically run K&N's but the filter I used on this interval came with the new filter-cap - maybe not as stringent...

Mine's a gen 2, I run Rotella T6 15w40. I know 5w40 was the recommended, but I live in a place that's quite hot a lot of the year and the little thicker is just my peace-of-mind. Strangely enough, I've seen a lot of people use Pennzoil 5w40 Full Synthetic "European Blend" which has different...

14.4 so far this winter ... scary I know. After I finish the rest of the delete and upload the stage 2 tune, and put in a new intake manifold without the swirl valves or throttle body butterfly, I'm hoping that'll change for the better.

I have been really tempted to ask someone like Haltech to come up with a CPS relocation kit with a bolt-on reluctor and put the darn thing back up front where it belongs and is far more serviceable. For longevity (the core of my build as well) - I went with an SFT tune currently stage 1, but...

So... we all know that forcing a diesel engine to eat it's own soot leads to premature engine bearing failure - just look around the forums for 'dead engine' threads. It's safe to say the EPA single-handedly ruined the reputations of countless engine producers, including our humble little...

Third regen in less than 2 months - maaaaybe 800 miles.... normal? :unsure: I'm starting to wonder if this is happening suddenly because I tried a cetane booster - add a couple ounces for a tank kind of situation. Usually I just run Howes Meaner-Kleaner but I thought I'd give this other stuff a...

You almost never hear of these problems in Europe or with fully deleted engines. I've done a stage 1 tune which turns off my EGR but keeps the DEF injector going. I've got a new intake in a box with the swirl valves removed but the actuator motor still there to plug in and keep the ECU happy...

One thing I had to learn to acclimate myself to seeing was a lesson someone once taught me about the difference between gas and diesel engines * gas engines you want to get the heat OUT (coolant around 160-190 is ideal) * diesels you want to keep the heat IN (coolant around 190-208 is normal)...

Mine will do that too, but essentially I'm exploring "truck stop" features. Sitting around at low idle for long stretches doesn't do any engine good, but if you prop it up a little north of 1100, the consensus is more positive. I used to wonder why even bigger rigs would idle up a little at...

Short update : So oddly enough, a little over 300 miles later, I received the Regen 80% full message a second time. This time I was able to run it down the Interstate and have it do the whole thing in 1 trip - but I found it a little strange that it came back and did another one so quickly...

Fast forward to about 3 minutes and 54 seconds, I did the heater valve and show where the drain is for the rad - it's on the driver's side. Hopefully it's the same on a '20 as it is on my '16 since the radiators seem to be 2013-2022 listings.

I'm about to do this very same job in the name of getting it out of the way, and to install a clean, new, sootless intake. As near as I can tell the biggest worry for me is the wiring and having to throw the passenger side harness across the driver's side of the engine, and maybe the fuel lines...

It is my understanding that running your diesel at the standard idle speed is probably not a good idea long-term. I've built and tuned this thing so far with longevity in mind, but there's the occasional camping trip where I'd like to leave the engine running on a beach campsite or something...

It took 18 miles, but it finally did the regen. I had to get it up over 70 in 7th before the progress started ticking down, but when it started, it came down pretty quick. It crept up to 90% on the way to fill up before getting on the Interstate, but at least I'm not sweating the display now...

Wow... I'm definitely doing something wrong, I barely make 15 but, it is a lot of stuck in traffic nonsense too 🤯

So after poking around, it appears there is an actual progress update on the display (watched a few people go less than 5 miles and it dropped 10% twice on their displays) ... I guess I will have to get it on the interstate more than 50 before it starts ticking down. 😒

How's your oil pressure looking? I've never heard of it happening on one of these engines yet, but I've had quite a number of flexplates fail on several AMC V8's over the years and they sound like horrific rod knocks right before it goes. Generally that break happens right around the flange...