13V vs 14V dash display?

[Frank246]

Not sure if this is the correct sub-fourm, but here goes:

IF you might have been following my battery/starter/tone ring repairs while traveling from SC to TX, while everything seems to be repaired and running well, I still have a "change" that has me wondering.

Before I did any work on the truck and what caused me to think I had a battery problem with the trucking starting issues, I noticed that my voltage readout on the dash changed from 14v to 13v. With the starting issue, I figured it was the battery and since it was now 7 years old (original), I replaced it. It did not solve the starting problem as you may have seen in my earlier posts.

Now that the starter/battery/tone ring have all been replaced, I thought the voltage would jump back to 14v. It has not and remains at 13v, but seems to hold without issue with lights, a/c, etc being on.

From the old school of thought, I am thinking maybe I have an alternator going back, but seems like it would show up in dropping down with the lights, etc voltage load increase.....and it does not.

Just looking for ideas or guess as to if I should be cocerned.

Thanks

 

[Frank246]

Maybe even so comments: Does your voltage run normally at 13 or 14v?

 

[GearHead]

Glad to hear your other issues have been solved. I just went through this with my ED. Mine started when we got home from a four week trip to Montana with the Toy Hauler and the 2500 RAM. Went to move the ED from in front of the shop to move the 2500 in for some engine investigation and WHAM dead battery, no start.

Charged battery long enough to start the truck and came back to it later when I moved the ED back in to do the planned rear diff rebuild. I then removed the battery and placed it on a automatic charger, yes this is the original 2014 battery. One week later, install battery and voltage reads battery voltage. Al connections checked, replaced the Battery Voltage Indicator, black box on negative cable. After a week of fiddling all returned to normal.

I park the ED for two days and use the 2500, came back to the ED and WHAM dead battery. Last straw purchase a new 910 CCA AGM battery and installed with no charge indicated, battery voltage 12.6V. Did a TIPMS reset, rechecked all the connections, finally got 12.9V. Started driving it normally and after a two hour trip saw 13.4V. After grandson left the cabin light on at the back seat overnight got a 14.1V reading and after 1.5 hrs. into a 4 hour drive dropped to 13.6V. All normal now, running 13.2V. New battery, especially an AGM, recovers faster and does not require as high an ampage/voltage jump as an older battery. With the new battery charge indicated 12.9V I also saw no drop with loads added. I do not trust the dash digital readout, it only reads in whole numbers. So you may be charging at 13.1 to 13.9V and you will only see 13. With a CTS display or a scanner plugged in while driving will you see actual alternator charge or battery voltage.

The final read was achieved with my alfaOBD reading actual alternator voltage, my data reading scanner that I was using was reading PCM voltage, about .5V difference. I do not know if the one week without battery voltage caused an issue with ECM, but by nudging with the alfaOBD it resolved itself, as well as the new battery recovering faster.

I would not worry about it

Good Luck.