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Banks intake manifold install?

Nate247m

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
7
1
Truck Year
2018
the only dependable tunes right now r coming out of Canada all the good ones in the USA got shut down
I'm running one from SFT. The trans tune and engine tune have been great for me. It's pretty comparable to GDE, which is what I'm running on my GC ED.
 

John Jensen

Well-Known Member
Mar 22, 2016
941
486
Truck Year
2016

RocketMan_2019

New Member
Nov 24, 2019
3
0
Truck Year
2015
The egr cooler was pretty simple and had instructions online. They do say they don’t offer and instructions on the intake manifold, but I figured someone would have it on you tube and no luck lol. Guess I will just have to take a lot of pictures while taking the stock one off. I hit 100,000 back in August and everything’s coming off now.
Any luck on that install of the Banks Manifold?
 

Dfrickan

New Member
Oct 28, 2019
11
8
Truck Year
2014
Just did the banks manifold install today. It took about 2 hours to pull it all out. The intake was very gummed up as I have 210k on it. Once I had it out I decided to clean it and see what I can do. It was still intact so I used mean green solvent and a toilet bowl cleaner as well as a tooth brush to clean it. Took about 2 hours to clean and then I pulled the pin on the swirl valves. I left the sensors on to close the ends and then I reinstalled it. I have a delete now so no more soot. It's been great. Took 3 hours together and yes I reused the steel fuel lines. I drove it for 2 hours and then retorqued the lines. All is well and I saved 1000 bucks on the banks intake. Returning it now. Biggest challenges were the two bolts in the back of the manifold. The turbo elbow was actually not bad like everyone says. Just used a regular Allen key. The rail doesn't need a special key. Just use a small torx bit for a screwdriver and use a 1/4 inch wrench on it. Gives you lost of room. While I had manifold off I took a vacuum and a brush and I cleaned out soot on head ports. That was basically a 25% restriction on it.
 

Miram

New Member
Apr 21, 2019
12
3
Truck Year
2014
Just want to make sure I'm reading right, you were able to save the stock intake and are returning the banks? I'm asking because I will be changing my motor soon and was considering the banks also. Trying to do everything while motor is out and easy to get to. Thanks
 

Dfrickan

New Member
Oct 28, 2019
11
8
Truck Year
2014
Yes. I saved the stock intake. It was gummed up teribbly, but I figured that if I clean it and I do a EGR delete after the fact, the swirl valves and plastic manifold won't be a issue. If you have a lack of boost, then I suspect a hole in the manifold due to manifold fire but if that's not the case, why would I need a new one. It looks brand new after the clean. 1000 dollars saved. Just use mean green cleaner from CT and soak it. Then use a toilet bowl cleaner and a toothbrush to clean it. Rinse and repeat until sufficient. While it is open, take a vacuum and a brush and clean out the intake port on the head aswell. They are very resticted after 210000km.
 

Dfrickan

New Member
Oct 28, 2019
11
8
Truck Year
2014
Unless you are building your engine and want alot more boost, the EGR is the only threat to the manifold. 20 bucks in cleaner and a bit of time will do the trick. What happened to your engine that you are swapping it? How many kms?
 

Miram

New Member
Apr 21, 2019
12
3
Truck Year
2014
Awsome thanks it will be nice to scrape 1000 bucks off the bill, it's expensive enough as is I'll probably do egr anyway while it's out. 2014 70000 miles guessing bearings haven't opened it up yet but knocked loud for about 30 seconds then locked up.
 

Jundiesel

New Member
Dec 25, 2019
5
0
Just did the banks manifold install today. It took about 2 hours to pull it all out. The intake was very gummed up as I have 210k on it. Once I had it out I decided to clean it and see what I can do. It was still intact so I used mean green solvent and a toilet bowl cleaner as well as a tooth brush to clean it. Took about 2 hours to clean and then I pulled the pin on the swirl valves. I left the sensors on to close the ends and then I reinstalled it. I have a delete now so no more soot. It's been great. Took 3 hours together and yes I reused the steel fuel lines. I drove it for 2 hours and then retorqued the lines. All is well and I saved 1000 bucks on the banks intake. Returning it now. Biggest challenges were the two bolts in the back of the manifold. The turbo elbow was actually not bad like everyone says. Just used a regular Allen key. The rail doesn't need a special key. Just use a small torx bit for a screwdriver and use a 1/4 inch wrench on it. Gives you lost of room. While I had manifold off I took a vacuum and a brush and I cleaned out soot on head ports. That was basically a 25% restriction on it.
Can u pls send to me? Thanks
 

Segstro

New Member
Apr 12, 2019
6
1
Truck Year
2014
I had to remove my manifold due the the dreaded banjo coolant connection hose blowout. One question for some of the folks that have done this before. When you put the fuel lines to the injectors back, what is the torque you tighten them to?

Here are some pics of the removal and manifold pulled. Note, this is on a 2014 EcoDiesel with 148,000 km on the dial.

Here you can see the bolt that was difficult to get to. I managed to get it out without pulling off the turbo intake boot with a short 8mm socket and a universal joint on an extension.
Bolt that was difficult to get to


Here is the Torx bit I cut down in order to get the fuel rail off the drivers side using a 1/4 wrench. Even with this, it was tricky get my fingers in there to get it in place and put enough pressure on it to break the two bolts loose.
Cut to size T40 torx bit

Here the manifold has been removed. You can see that banjo coolant connector going to the turbo that caused me all the trouble.
The dreaded banjo coolant connection hose location

These last few show the horrible clamps they use on that hose. My hose didn't burst, but the clamps were weak, and eventually let the coolant leak onto the top of the block.
These clamps let the coolant leak after 148k  km

Removed the hose without having to remove the other banjo connection from the turbo

Hose actually looks pretty good, but I will replace with high heat and pressure hose anyhow

Looks like it was leaking for some time with the build up of crusted antifreeze

These clamps should be outlawed. Replacing with stainless steal hose clamps
 

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Dfrickan

New Member
Oct 28, 2019
11
8
Truck Year
2014
Good job. Thats how I got fuel rail off. It worked fine. According to specs you have to replace the rail lines every time you remove. But I definitely didn't. I just tightened them to my descresion like I would have with any other rail lines on other engines. It's selfpriming and it was all simple. Here are the specs.IMG_20191212_214458~2.jpg
 

Segstro

New Member
Apr 12, 2019
6
1
Truck Year
2014
Good job. Thats how I got fuel rail off. It worked fine. According to specs you have to replace the rail lines every time you remove. But I definitely didn't. I just tightened them to my descresion like I would have with any other rail lines on other engines. It's selfpriming and it was all simple. Here are the specs.View attachment 2649
Thank you for providing that! Much appreciated! I replaced the hose today and put on two stainless steel hose clamps. The coolant system has been at 15lbs pressure for about 2 hours now with no issues. I'll be putting the intake back on tomorrow after I give it a good clean.
 

TC Diesel

Well-Known Member
Jul 14, 2016
2,489
711
Truck Year
2015
When you remove the intake check the Valves for warping, I do not agree with the term fuel tubes, fuel lines would be the more appropriate term. The lines just need to be checked for mating surface imperfection(s), if none they can be reused .Make darn sure they are cleaned and store properly both High Pressure and return Lines. When mating surfaces are perfect TQ to 20FT Lbs, now 20Lbs (High Pressure lines) is just the starting point, You need to MAX the rail pressure to check for leaks, You can do this by Scan tool or simply unplug the FCA when running this will peg your Rail Pressure no leaks and your good, if a leak(s) is found tighten town to 25-28FT LBs they will strip/deform 38-45FT Lbs.

Do not confuse the HIGH pressure lines with return fuel lines back to tank the return lines only have about 2-4 PSI and the high pressure lines Max at 26.000-28.000 PSI

When you peg your rail pressure combustion knock will increase and fear may over take you, No need to worry NO damage is occurring. its just combustion knock.

When the intake is removed I would remove the Glow plugs and replace and be liberal with high temp anti-sieze.
 

Segstro

New Member
Apr 12, 2019
6
1
Truck Year
2014
When you remove the intake check the Valves for warping, I do not agree with the term fuel tubes, fuel lines would be the more appropriate term. The lines just need to be checked for mating surface imperfection(s), if none they can be reused .Make darn sure they are cleaned and store properly both High Pressure and return Lines. When mating surfaces are perfect TQ to 20FT Lbs, now 20Lbs (High Pressure lines) is just the starting point, You need to MAX the rail pressure to check for leaks, You can do this by Scan tool or simply unplug the FCA when running this will peg your Rail Pressure no leaks and your good, if a leak(s) is found tighten town to 25-28FT LBs they will strip/deform 38-45FT Lbs.

Do not confuse the HIGH pressure lines with return fuel lines back to tank the return lines only have about 2-4 PSI and the high pressure lines Max at 26.000-28.000 PSI

When you peg your rail pressure combustion knock will increase and fear may over take you, No need to worry NO damage is occurring. its just combustion knock.

When the intake is removed I would remove the Glow plugs and replace and be liberal with high temp anti-sieze.


Thank you for the detailed tips!
 

Segstro

New Member
Apr 12, 2019
6
1
Truck Year
2014
Quick update.
Replaced the coolant hose with 300psi high-heat hose and better hose clamps for good measure.
Stock vs new 300psi hose
New hose and clamps

Tested at 15lbs for 24 hours. No issues.
20200125_141225.jpg

The truck is back in working order with no codes thrown. Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
I've had the manifold off 4 times, and never replaced a fuel line once. Accentually installed the banks, and it will make a world of difference, simply because of deleting the swirl valves. I deleted the swirl valves on the factory manifold but ended up having a boost leak where the swirl motor is under the manifold" my fault in a rush" but the factory manifold is plastic junk. If you need step by step intake manifold removal just msg me. It's not bad at all just looks overwhelming. And you can reuse the gasket as well.
 

TC Diesel

Well-Known Member
Jul 14, 2016
2,489
711
Truck Year
2015
Foxracing02, Nice. Now remove that foam.
 
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