fuel rail has 2 b Removed from left side re use themCan anyone verify the removal of the fuel lines and what needs to be done when putting them back on or if you 100% have to buy new ones to reinstall?
fuel rail has 2 b Removed from left side re use themCan anyone verify the removal of the fuel lines and what needs to be done when putting them back on or if you 100% have to buy new ones to reinstall?
I'm running one from SFT. The trans tune and engine tune have been great for me. It's pretty comparable to GDE, which is what I'm running on my GC ED.the only dependable tunes right now r coming out of Canada all the good ones in the USA got shut down
Any luck on that install of the Banks Manifold?The egr cooler was pretty simple and had instructions online. They do say they don’t offer and instructions on the intake manifold, but I figured someone would have it on you tube and no luck lol. Guess I will just have to take a lot of pictures while taking the stock one off. I hit 100,000 back in August and everything’s coming off now.
Can u pls send to me? ThanksJust did the banks manifold install today. It took about 2 hours to pull it all out. The intake was very gummed up as I have 210k on it. Once I had it out I decided to clean it and see what I can do. It was still intact so I used mean green solvent and a toilet bowl cleaner as well as a tooth brush to clean it. Took about 2 hours to clean and then I pulled the pin on the swirl valves. I left the sensors on to close the ends and then I reinstalled it. I have a delete now so no more soot. It's been great. Took 3 hours together and yes I reused the steel fuel lines. I drove it for 2 hours and then retorqued the lines. All is well and I saved 1000 bucks on the banks intake. Returning it now. Biggest challenges were the two bolts in the back of the manifold. The turbo elbow was actually not bad like everyone says. Just used a regular Allen key. The rail doesn't need a special key. Just use a small torx bit for a screwdriver and use a 1/4 inch wrench on it. Gives you lost of room. While I had manifold off I took a vacuum and a brush and I cleaned out soot on head ports. That was basically a 25% restriction on it.
Thank you for providing that! Much appreciated! I replaced the hose today and put on two stainless steel hose clamps. The coolant system has been at 15lbs pressure for about 2 hours now with no issues. I'll be putting the intake back on tomorrow after I give it a good clean.Good job. Thats how I got fuel rail off. It worked fine. According to specs you have to replace the rail lines every time you remove. But I definitely didn't. I just tightened them to my descresion like I would have with any other rail lines on other engines. It's selfpriming and it was all simple. Here are the specs.View attachment 2649
When you remove the intake check the Valves for warping, I do not agree with the term fuel tubes, fuel lines would be the more appropriate term. The lines just need to be checked for mating surface imperfection(s), if none they can be reused .Make darn sure they are cleaned and store properly both High Pressure and return Lines. When mating surfaces are perfect TQ to 20FT Lbs, now 20Lbs (High Pressure lines) is just the starting point, You need to MAX the rail pressure to check for leaks, You can do this by Scan tool or simply unplug the FCA when running this will peg your Rail Pressure no leaks and your good, if a leak(s) is found tighten town to 25-28FT LBs they will strip/deform 38-45FT Lbs.
Do not confuse the HIGH pressure lines with return fuel lines back to tank the return lines only have about 2-4 PSI and the high pressure lines Max at 26.000-28.000 PSI
When you peg your rail pressure combustion knock will increase and fear may over take you, No need to worry NO damage is occurring. its just combustion knock.
When the intake is removed I would remove the Glow plugs and replace and be liberal with high temp anti-sieze.