• Welcome to EcoDieselRam.com We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your EcoDiesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • We believe in quality OVER quantity, and a family friendly place for your #EcoDiesel home!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER! Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

CEL and Service Electronic Throttle Control Message, Limp Mode But No Codes??

BTdriver

Member
Aug 30, 2018
81
40
Truck Year
2015
The only other thing I really worry about is the coolant line under the intake manifold. I may get an estimate on that too.
If I may add...
That failed on my truck this last fall at about 150k mi. The independent shop that did it initially quoted $2600 to replace the rubber part and the forward (easier) metal tube. I opted for a complete, one piece assembly with braiding over the rubber tube. That added another $2300 to the bill as they had to remove the cab to get to the oil tube banjo bolt that is down below the turbo to move it out of the way. Spendy, but I considered these: 1. I have read on this forum that the coolant line has failed in as little as 50k mi, and given that I tend to keep vehicles for a long time, I would likely have to replace the line again at some inconvenient time and place at increased cost, it was better/cost effective to put in the far more durable line now. 2. In removing the cab, they evacuated and reserviced the a/c, which was not as cold as it used to be. So, in the end, I saved a small amount of money on a future repair and saved all of the time and frustration.

Hope this is helpful, YMMV.
 

1shadowsabre

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
864
351
Truck Year
2015
If I may add...
That failed on my truck this last fall at about 150k mi. The independent shop that did it initially quoted $2600 to replace the rubber part and the forward (easier) metal tube. I opted for a complete, one piece assembly with braiding over the rubber tube. That added another $2300 to the bill as they had to remove the cab to get to the oil tube banjo bolt that is down below the turbo to move it out of the way. Spendy, but I considered these: 1. I have read on this forum that the coolant line has failed in as little as 50k mi, and given that I tend to keep vehicles for a long time, I would likely have to replace the line again at some inconvenient time and place at increased cost, it was better/cost effective to put in the far more durable line now. 2. In removing the cab, they evacuated and reserviced the a/c, which was not as cold as it used to be. So, in the end, I saved a small amount of money on a future repair and saved all of the time and frustration.

Hope this is helpful, YMMV.
Thank you for that info, definitely food for thought! I have seen the braided hose you are talking about and it looks like a high quality piece that will give years of service!
 

Martin Camarena

New Member
Dec 30, 2022
4
2
Truck Year
2016
2016 EcoDiesel 3.0

Husband hit a patch of ice on the road while accelerating. RPM’s shot up to about 3000, then when the truck hit pavement again and the tires caught traction, a bunch of lights flashed on the dashboard, including check engine light, then the “Service Electronic Throttle Control” message came on, and the truck went into limp mode. Limped about a mile to a gas station to get fuel. When he attempted to restart the truck, it turned over but struggled to start for about 5-10 seconds before finally starting. Drove home about 3 blocks and parked. Scanned truck with a code scanner but there are ZERO codes.

He’s tried changing the fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the MAP sensor, changed the battery (battery voltage was low), and pulled the EGR Tube to check if it was blocked, and it was not. Check engine light and the “Service Electronic Throttle Control” message are still on, still struggling to start, and still in limp mode. What else can we try besides taking it to a dealership?
I ran out of diesel once and the throttle opened up more than it should and send the code as well. My friend connected a scanner and cleared the code. No parts or disassemble at all.
 
Top