Dealership States Blown Head Gasket

[Summit 1]

I have noticed a few spots of oil on garage floor. Crawled under truck and notcied oil over passenger front side of motor. Took truck to dealership and they said a blown head gasket and waterpump is leaking. I told them that it should be covered under FCA warrenty. Well it is not. Estimate of $12,946.82 for repairs on a 2015 Ram!
My questions are what would cause the head gasket to blow?
No oil in antifreeze or vis versa, no codes, no white smoke, not consuming antifreeze, is it a head gasket issue or EGR cooler or ?
The dealership is not helping me in any way.
Any information on this issue I have will be very much appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[John Jensen]

That analysis and cost doesn't make sense to me. I'd find another dealer.

 

[BTdriver]

I would definitely get a second opinion on that. While head gasket is possible, there are other things that are much more likely to be the cause. I agree, the EGR cooler is a common failure point. One thing I noticed on my truck (also a 2015) is that the level in the coolant reservior, does not correlate to the amount of coolant in the system. The way to know if your system is actually full is to get it up to temp, add some coolant until it is above the big seam in the reservoir, drive it a little, then see if the level is still above that seam.
Oil on the pass. front side of engine sounds more like cam cover, that side of the timing cover, an injector return line, or something to do with the injection pump. it would require a close visual inspection to pinpoint the source.

My experience with dealerships has been that they will tell you it needs a real expensive repair that would include what you actually need, plus a lot more, so they can make a much bigger profit. When I was getting the EGR cooler recall done, the dealer told me it needed two other parts related to the cooler and would replace them for parts cost of $900. I looked up the part #'s they gave me on mopar.com and the price came to about $350. In short, what I saw was, they'll say you need more, and if you agree to it, they'll happily take your money to do it.

Hope this helps. YMMV

 

[Summit 1]

I agree with what you are saying. I just do not trust their opinion. Good diesel techs are hard to find and my experience with my local dealership has never been great. With these eco diesels there always seems to be something going on and especially regens for me that they can not get me a answer on. Have to go for a 25 mile ride on the highway to clear the 80-90% particulate filter.

 

[BTdriver]

I agree with what you are saying. I just do not trust their opinion. Good diesel techs are hard to find and my experience with my local dealership has never been great. With these eco diesels there always seems to be something going on and especially regens for me that they can not get me a answer on. Have to go for a 25 mile ride on the highway to clear the 80-90% particulate filter.

From what I've seen/heard, that length drive is in the normal range for a DPF regen. If you're not already, putting one of the diesel additives in the fuel helps with improving combustion thus reducing soot, increasing regen intervals and reducing regen time. In no particular order, some popular additive brands: Hotshot's, Power Service, Howe's. Another thing to consider, if you have to pass emissions in your area, is to put a restrictor in you EGR crossover tube. This will cut down the amount of soot being recirculated beck through your intake among other things. Let me know if you want info on the restrictor I made (and use) from items at the hardware store, for about $4.

Hope this helps. YMMV

 

[Summit 1]

Yes I would welcome the crossover info. I also have been using Power Service Diesel Kleen/O
Cetane Boost for the past 9 months and it does make a difference in the regen interval. But they still occur especially it I remote start in winter months.

 

[John Jensen]

From what I've seen/heard, that length drive is in the normal range for a DPF regen. If you're not already, putting one of the diesel additives in the fuel helps with improving combustion thus reducing soot, increasing regen intervals and reducing regen time. In no particular order, some popular additive brands: Hotshot's, Power Service, Howe's. Another thing to consider, if you have to pass emissions in your area, is to put a restrictor in you EGR crossover tube. This will cut down the amount of soot being recirculated beck through your intake among other things. Let me know if you want info on the restrictor I made (and use) from items at the hardware store, for about $4.

Hope this helps. YMMV

Just an FYI
Over the years my regen completion mileages have varied all over the map, but the average thus far is 13 miles.

 

[BTdriver]

I've been using a very inexpensive MacGuyver restrictor (SFT stage 1 w/ EGR on - have to pass emissions still): 1 Ace Hardware 1" basket strainer (p/n: 40291 on plumbing/sink aisle), and a flat washer from their small hardware aisle (P/N: UCU - washer covers the entire bottom of strainer with 3/16" center hole). Price is around $3 for both. Use some heat resistant wire to secure washer in bottom of strainer - I used .032" steel lock wire. The basket fits perfectly inside the EGR cooler end of the EGR tube. This mod will flow just enough to keep sensors happy, but still lower MAT and greatly reduce intake soot. I saw a noticeable improvement in acceleration at low speed and power at highway speeds when passing or going up hill, and a couple more MPG at 80mph (YMMV).

I have pics but can't seem to get the size small enough for them to upload.

 

[John Jensen]

I've been using a very inexpensive MacGuyver restrictor (SFT stage 1 w/ EGR on - have to pass emissions still): 1 Ace Hardware 1" basket strainer (p/n: 40291 on plumbing/sink aisle), and a flat washer from their small hardware aisle (P/N: UCU - washer covers the entire bottom of strainer with 3/16" center hole). Price is around $3 for both. Use some heat resistant wire to secure washer in bottom of strainer - I used .032" steel lock wire. The basket fits perfectly inside the EGR cooler end of the EGR tube. This mod will flow just enough to keep sensors happy, but still lower MAT and greatly reduce intake soot. I saw a noticeable improvement in acceleration at low speed and power at highway speeds when passing or going up hill, and a couple more MPG at 80mph (YMMV).

Wouldn't it be easier and more efficient to have your SFT Stage 1 w/EGR off and when time for a smog test merely load the stock tune?

 

[BTdriver]

Wouldn't it be easier and more efficient to have your SFT Stage 1 w/EGR off and when time for a smog test merely load the stock tune?

Where I'm at, they only test opacity. As long as the DPF keeps doing its job, I'll pass - even with the tune and the restrictor installed. It only takes about 10 min to put in. To your point, I suppose having the EGR off would be better, but that would require contacting SFT...

 

[John Jensen]

To your point, I suppose having the EGR off would be better, but that would require contacting SFT...

Yes, it would be more effective. SFT's charge for a new tune would be at least 50.00. And with their record, in all probability they would probably screw it up and the battle would begin.

 

[autoX]

Overheating will cause a head gasket to go.
Or if the head bolts have loosened off.
They diagnosed it as an oil passage breach, block to head, which I had in Audi V8. The service record showed a dealer re/re of the heads but there must have been a leveling issue, cause it kept leaking.
I went to a lower viscosity oil and that helped with the leak as the pressure was lower. We torqued the head bolts too. but it still leaked oil the over the years of use.