Engine Oil temperatures when towing or hauling large loads

[renewal101]

What are other members are experiencing for engine oil temperatures at varying loads? I read a post that implied that there is a higher percentage of engine failures in EDs that are used more often for towing and hauling heavier loads. Could this indicate that the oil cooler is undersized for those conditions? I noticed yesterday that on a gentle climb of 700 feet elevation over 3 miles, my engine oil went from 209 deg to 213 deg and still rising while my coolant temperature held at 208 deg. That was with a totally unloaded truck. With oil breakdown temperature at 240 deg.......seems like very little margin. I will be watching closely but would really like to hear what others are experiencing......especially with loads. Also my engine oil pressure starts cold at approx 60 psi and idles after warm at 20 psi?

 

[renewal101]

Should I think this is normal? This is a picture of my temps just as I exited the freeway after a 8 mile steady incline (altitude gain of about 800 feet} at 60 MPH and a outdoor temp of 50 degrees. My only load was a RZR side-by-side in the bed. In summer months, I often tow my much heavier boat in 95 degree outdoor temps.. It seems to me that the oil cooler doesn't have the capacity to hold oil temperature down?

 

[01TwoForty]

That is about that I have seen: ~240, however our synthetic oil won’t breakdown at 240. I don’t think that engine oil heat exchanger is as much of oil cooler as it is oil warmer. It can’t cool the oil any cooler than the engine coolant temp.

I’m trying to trace the system, from what I see the coolant return from the engine and transmission heat exchangers mix then are sent up the valley towards the front of the engine, from there I’m not sure where that goes...it might go to the water pump to the radiator or back in to the water jacket.

Either way it looks like the coolant that goes into the engine oil heat exchanger comes from the water jacket, not from the radiator, so it is already warm…hence my thought that it is more of a warmer to get the oil up to operating temperature after a cold startup.

 

[renewal101]

That is about that I have seen: ~240, however our synthetic oil won’t breakdown at 240. I don’t think that engine oil heat exchanger is as much of oil cooler as it is oil warmer. It can’t cool the oil any cooler than the engine coolant temp.

I’m trying to trace the system, from what I see the coolant return from the engine and transmission heat exchangers mix then are sent up the valley towards the front of the engine, from there I’m not sure where that goes...it might go to the water pump to the radiator or back in to the water jacket.

Either way it looks like the coolant that goes into the engine oil heat exchanger comes from the water jacket, not from the radiator, so it is already warm…hence my thought that it is more of a warmer to get the oil up to operating temperature after a cold startup.

01TwoForty......thanks for your response and I agree with your thoughts on the oil cooler. After your info on synthetic oil breakdown temps, I did some study on that. From what I have read, the total breakdown of synthetic oil is just above 400 degrees but with some degradation starting at 300 degrees? Does that sound right? So that reduces my concern a little. I'm still anxious to see where the engine oil temp goes this summer when 95 degrees and I'm towing my boat with the RZR on the back. I would sure like to see a oil cooler that would insure our oil temperatures at 240 degrees or below.

 

[seiko]

I didn't monitor my oil temperature last summer and I be watching it soon, in a few months, when I start trailering. I be sure to take a picture, if it hits on the high side. It shouldn't go too much higher than the normal radiator coolant temperature, I expect.

Will send it to FCA, if it a concern. I do know, my transmission oil was okay, radiator coolant was okay. PSI was okay. Stayed at normal temperatures. But didn't take note of the oil temperatures.

My EGT 1 & EGT 2 would hit 1500 F when climbing, towing in the rockies, speed limit about 110 KM per hour using cruise control.

Went manual when I got the alert and slowed down, so temperatures drop.

Didn't have to do that with the Ford F150 EcoBoost. 3.5 (We have two of them in the family, 2014 and a 2015). They never seem to heat up. If you pull over, everything is touchable by hand.

They do build up carbon on the fuel injectors, so does the EcoDiesel, using Shell v-power or the gas equivalent would take care of it.

Something isn't right??? Would you think...

Otherwise all is well....so far...

 

[Teri906]

This is very interesting, my ED has overheated 5 different times without hauling! I've had my shutter replaced, flushed and bled several times. Something with the Cc and currently my def injector has my truck totally inoperable! This is my "normal temperature range when it overheats! This truck has spent more time with the mechanic then me.

 

[BoostN]

This is very interesting, my ED has overheated 5 different times without hauling! I've had my shutter replaced, flushed and bled several times. Something with the Cc and currently my def injector has my truck totally inoperable! This is my "normal temperature range when it overheats! This truck has spent more time with the mechanic then me.

Have you spoken to FCA customer service? They are ususally pretty good about taking care of customers with multiple issues. Keep us updated!

 

[seiko]

I have never seen that hot of a reading from my radiator. Even summer time, towing my trailer, it stay 1/2 on the meter, unlike your'er it about 2/3. Transmission temperature about 1/2 too. Never had an indication at any time of overheating.

The only area, is my oil temperature, didn't monitor it while towing or when my EGT 1 and EGT2 peaked 1500 f. I will be doing that soon, in fact I even set up my Edge to alarm when it hit 230 F. and my Coolant alarm now at 225 F.

Does the diesel have a water pump for the coolant? That would be my first suspect. I think I read somewhere, there was a recall on some of the pumps.

I know there are some belts there too, but not sure if water pump is belt driven, If so, may be slipping. Probably not.

 

[jdn112011]

@renewal101 @01TwoForty you are right the "oil cooler" is only a heat sink that is moreso an oil warmer to get oil to efficient operating temps but it does virtually no good to actually cool the engine temp only capable of bringing it to coolant temp.

If you look near the oil filter there is a aluminum heat sink bolted to the block that the coolant lines run through. It's about 4" square. That is the equivalent of our oil cooler. It serves it's purpose for heating the oil but it is flawed in cooling. There needs to be a thermostat controlled bypass to a forward facing air cooled oil cooler. (Radiator style). There's a company working on a block off plate for the factory cooler and to use a forward facing cooler but not one that uses a thermostat controlled auxiliary cooler for only high temps that I feel would actually do the best.

 

[seiko]

Is this the oil cooler you are referring too.

 

[jdn112011]

Considering that is the only one on the ecodiesel yeah probably.

 

[Teri906]

Have you spoken to FCA customer service? They are ususally pretty good about taking care of customers with multiple issues. Keep us updated!

I have spoke to everyone. My truck is currently broke down in Ohio and I live in NJ and because I didn't buy the truck at the particular dealership, they cannot give me a loaner. I'm on what the service manager told me a "critical waiting list for my parts". My truck is in the "healing process" everything has to be reset and there is no guarantee this will fix the problem. After speaking to Chrysler they cannot help me with a loaner or rental, because of something on my file. Enough was enough I filed Lemon Law, so they will not help me! This thing has left me stranded in 3 different states 3 too many times! I will keep you posted!

 

[jdn112011]

I'd have flipped beyond your current state.

Filing lemon law at this point and notifying Chrysler of doing so is definitely your best bet right now.

 

[jdn112011]

Unfortunate scenario and I can't believe the dealers would leave you in that position.

What about your purchasing dealer at home? Will they after the fact provide a loaner or won't they touch you without them physically doing the warranty Work?

 

[Teri906]

Unfortunate scenario and I can't believe the dealers would leave you in that position.

What about your purchasing dealer at home? Will they after the fact provide a loaner or won't they touch you without them physically doing the warranty Work?

Believe me when I tell you my patience has been more than tested with this truck! No they won't provide loaner because they don't have vehicle. I feel like a dog chasing my tail! I love talking to anyone from Chrysler, being told that they are going to have a "certified mechanic" look at it! That's funny because I'd like to think all their mechanics are certified! I have paperwork from a dealer in Michigan who states he called Chrysler and was told that theses engines run hot. The mechanic also puts that is no way normal.
I regret trading in my Hemi for this thing, but live and learn.

 

[jdn112011]

If it's any consolation you're the only person I've ever heard of having this issue. But a day late and a dollar short I guess

 

[moparecodiesel]

your electric fan is not kicking on. you can move the power wire to a different terminal on your battery. theres no way to see if the fuse is bad. i had to do it to mine in a pinch.

 

[Teri906]

Replaced, Overheated 2 times since!

your electric fan is not kicking on. you can move the power wire to a different terminal on your battery. theres no way to see if the fuse is bad. i had to do it to mine in a pinch.

 

[jdn112011]

Replace maybe; but is it working? Is it actually engaging after replacement or just a new one thrown in and assumed it's ok?

What pieces of that puzzle were the ones replaced?

 

[moparecodiesel]

ok, theres zero way this engine has heating problems on its own without something hardware failing. Im suspecting your thermostat has seized. Im positive now, if for sure the fan is kicking on at 220f, because i have my oil cooler deleted, so my oil no longer touches any part of the antifreeze/ coolant system and even under full load, pulling a trailer, idling, driving with 1400lbs in the bed, driving around town, idling for 4 hours, the coolant never goes above 206f. i could literally throw the fan on the side of the road and drive all night long without it, This is a super well designed engine, Im seeing this first hand what shes capable of. Im really sure you have an outside force overheating the oil, because the coolant itself never needs a fan. So your oil system or thermostat is overheating your engine. This is bs you have to deal with this on your own.