I went ahead and purchased the Amsoil from their website. Came to my door in two days....I wasn't expecting it come so quickly, considering all the shipping issues. I don't have the filter yet. I read Doc's https://www.docsdiesel.com/collecti...l-filter-kit-2014-2020?variant=37760933691553 and was curious if anyone here has experience with their products and could chime in. It's either this or OEM. Thanks!
What are you basing this on?
I'm not trying to sound cynical or challenge you. I just changed mine yesterday, and didn't use a Mopar filter, now I'm wondering if I should panic.
What are you basing this on?
I'm not trying to sound cynical or challenge you. I just changed mine yesterday, and didn't use a Mopar filter, now I'm wondering if I should panic.
I believe the Mopar filter's smaller particles (measured in microns) than the others, and that's what Ram wants or requires. No need to panic, you are filtering, just not the best.
A good friend of mine had a neighbor mechanic install an after market fuel filter in his 2016 Eco Diesel. The media in the filter came apart and clogged the fuel system. It cost him big bucks to get the system flushed and restored. Use Mopar fuel filters only.
I'll check it in a couple thousand and see how it looks. If it's at all questionable, I'll replace it then and there. Otherwise, I'll go with the Mopar at next oil change.
I'll check it in a couple thousand and see how it looks. If it's at all questionable, I'll replace it then and there. Otherwise, I'll go with the Mopar at next oil change.
I'm talking about the fuel filter, I've seen several pictures of aftermarket fuel filters that have come apart & contaminated things downstream of the filter, I've resolved to use only MOPAR fuel filters.
I'm talking about the fuel filter, I've seen several pictures of aftermarket fuel filters that have come apart & contaminated things downstream of the filter, I've resolved to use only MOPAR fuel filters.
Ok, just making sure we were on the same page, I live in a dry climate so I don't have to worry much about water in fuel, just be aware that that cheap fuel filter could get real expensive real quick, I'd also recommend good fuel additives every tank, I use HOT SHOTS SECRET EDT every tank and HOT SHOTS DIESEL EXTREME every 6 months according to the directions. I also use another HOT SHOTS fuel product called LX4, but that one's totally up to you, the first two are to help with the lack of lubricity in ULTRA LOW SULPHER fuels.
Why does Ram not recommend products like these if they're better for the vehicle?
I know everyone has an opinion on what works and what doesn't, but some things are just factual. If the current diesel fuel has less lubricity, and diesel drivetrains require more than they have, why not put additives it in the manual?
Simplify, man.
I don't know why they don't recommend them, I do know that I've been a diesel Mechanic since 1979, I retired from an Ambulance service provider doing their maintenance and using the program that I developed in 1999, my schedules and products are still used today. Hot shots developed a product that was approved and recommende by FORD for use in their 6.0 liter diesel that was developed and suppilied by International, that product was "STICTION ELIMINATOR" it's an oil additive to help clean oil lubricated parts of the injector, FYI I also add this to my oil once in a while for different reasons than injectors. The products I mention for the fuel system are specifically for the "ROLLER" on the plunger of the CP4 high pressure fuel pumpand the internals of the pump & injectors, the cost is negligible as you only use a couple of ounces per tank. The ULSD fuel was mandated by the government back in the 2000's sometime, I don't rightly remeber when, some engins had problems with it some didn't, Cummins had gone to a CP4 fuel pump in around 16 or 17 & ended up with massive recalls all due to fuel. I think they ended up installing CP3 pumps on their engines. I have no skin in the game other than my truck, a truck with one of the most technilogically advanced diesel engines out there, parts and labor are very expensive and I want to do everything in my power to keep it going. It's your truck, your choice. There's studies out there that will support these findings, just googl ULSD FUEL LUBRICITY PROBLEMS.
I also use HOT SHOTS SECRET EDT plus LX4 every tank. And, HOT SHOTS DIESEL EXTREME, only once a year because of low annual miles.
I used to sell additives (except Hot Shots) and used what I sold. The top one was Archoil. Archoil developed a stiction additive (AR9100) early on, before Hot Shots developed theirs. I can attest that AR9100 worked, it cured so many customer vehicles. I could safely say, "if you use AR9100, and it doesn't work, you don't have stiction, you have injector problems." I'm sure Hot Shots works as well.
The best additive for fuel stabilization and/or renewal is PRI-D or G.
I switched to Hot Shots' because of their research & development, effectiveness, quality and pricing. I use additives not for an immediate benefit, such as mileage improvement, which is illusory. I use them for preventative maintenance.
I bought a Gal of Hot Shots Stiction as preventative maintenance for bearing failure in my Eco. Just thinking it may help, and it needs all the help I can give it. What is your reason?
Also jolene, I legitimately got over 750,000 miles out of some of the Powerstrokes with routine maintenance, you also need to realize that their fhigh pressure fuel pump was different than modern diesels, but I feel additives are important.
John, naysayers say the stiction elilinator is snake oil, our little engines already run high oil temps and that is why, to increase lubrication on the turbo at shutdown, rocker arms rings bearings etc. I used the products in my Duramax, some of them in the Powerstrokes,and will use them in my ECO. I also use some FR3 with the stiction eliminator, it may seem a little redundant but IDK.
John, naysayers say the stiction elilinator is snake oil, our little engines already run high oil temps and that is why, to increase lubrication on the turbo at shutdown, rocker arms rings bearings etc. I used the products in my Duramax, some of them in the Powerstrokes,and will use them in my ECO. I also use some FR3 with the stiction eliminator, it may seem a little redundant but IDK.
Stiction Eliminator already has FR3 in it. Never thought about adding more FR3. Sorta like adding LX4 to EDT (it already has LX4 in it). A good idea, thanks
Stiction Eliminator already has FR3 in it. Never thought about adding more FR3. Sorta like adding LX4 to EDT (it already has LX4 in it). A good idea, thanks
Also jolene, I legitimately got over 750,000 miles out of some of the Powerstrokes with routine maintenance, you also need to realize that their fhigh pressure fuel pump was different than modern diesels, but I feel additives are important.
I think the ECO can be hit or mis, but mostly hit, I dtuned mine early at around 16 or 17k miles, a good engine & transmission tune can help limit/eliminate the problems that may or may not exist in the platform tune, I chose a tuner that allows the EGR to be shut off, I chose SOFA KING TUNED and their transmission rally tune, I've since heard that they've changed things up a bit and may not be as robust. GDE offers a compliant tune, and a few others offer EGR shut down tunes, check around if that's something that might interest you, depending on where you live, if you're required to emissions test then you will be very limited on choices, do your regular maintenance and keep proper oil & I think you will be golden. I think the ECO MAY have gotten a bad rap, maybe improper maintenance or loading etc, there's a transporter that has over 400k on his ECO, he delivers boats and AIRSTREAM travel trailers all over the country, his handle is verndiesel, check here & some of the other boards for him. I also HIGHLY suggest that you buy an DGE INSIGHT 11 or III, so you can monitor the IMPORTANT things with your rig, regens and oil pressure & temp, exhaust temps etc. the ECO is not the most notable rig for a grocery getter, they like to be on the road running.
