Hello everyone! I just found this forum and it looks like a great source for EcoDiesel info. I have a 2020 Ram 1500. My wife bought it for me as a present upon her retirement. I think she just wants me to spend more time out of the house since she is not going to work anymore. We got it new and have found it to be a wonderful vehicle for long distance travel. We have put over 120K miles on the truck in less then 5 years with no major failures up to now and plan on many, many more. Presently we are awaiting repair of the dread tone wheel/crank position failure. Hopefully it will be covered under our extended warrenrty. We shall see. I look forward to reading these pages for any and all advice on keeping this truck on the road. Thanks!
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I’m the new guy
- Thread starter Dentino3
- Start date
J.R.
New Member
- Jan 25, 2025
- 3
- 0
- Truck Year
- 2016
Hello Dentino3, I am a new member as of today. I own a late year vin for the 2016 Ram Larmie Ecodeisel. I have 203,000+ miles on her and plan to keep her. I understand I will spend some significant $$ to do this... but I like/love the vehicle and believe in the second generation of the engine and decided with my experience... to stay with the second generation (ask about the decision process if you choose). I just took delivery of my truck from the Dealer replacing the Tone Wheel. The cost of the part is approximately $70 .. the Labor to get to the part was ~$2500. Not a problem for me as I understand what was necessary.. The Mechanic had to unmate the transmission from the back of the engine to get to the part.
Summer 2024, I began to recognize the sound of possible bearing wear in the rear drive train. Had it verified at the dealership and was told that I could drive several thousand miles more before it might "get worse'. I elected to have it rebuilt. Cost out of the door was ~$8000.00.
One month ago, during cold weather, the cabin temperature would not produce heat. Changed instrument indication to check the engine temperature considering possible low coolant fluid yielded a temp of about 215 degrees at first look. During the same drive a higher highway speed showed 220 degrees. All still within the acceptable range on the gauge. I opened the hood to check the fluid level in the system. I opened the filler cap located on the white translucent coolant overflow and filler tank. The level of fluid showing was low but still visible. This fluid level was though, below the level of the hose that is connected on the lower left side of the tank. I used 50/50 coolant fluid to fill and it took one full gallon. At that point the fluid level was above that hose I defined and near the marks on the tank. After this the driving temperature of the engine coolant was its normal 205 degree range and the temperature of the cabin air was normal meaning nice and warm and able to vary the cabin temperature. When I arrived back home I checked the tank level and it was below the hose on the lower left again.. so I filled it back to the marks on the tank. The nest three driving sessions yielded a degrading cabin temperature - not producing consistent or controllable heat and the same result after re-filling the tank to full... that is... fluid level lower and below that hose level previously described. Took the car into the dealer. It was determined by the Mechanic that there was a leak in the radiator and the turbo-charger hose from the cooling system. I chose to have the radiator replaced and the hose to the turbo-charger. I also had the serpentine belt replaced at the same time (labor advantage). Had all other hoses checked. Cost out the door with an oil change and an under-hood light replacement was ~$6000.00.
Now only a few days after getting my truck back from the Tone Wheel replacement (improved part - btw) I had an electrical problem that manifested itself this way... on a very cold night in the lower 20s F... a remote start sounded like one and a half tone beep followed by no response from the fob in any mode and no ability to eclectically enter the vehicle. I used the manual key to enter and by any method, there was no electrical available by any attempt. A jumper cable from another vehicle gave power and I was able to start the car. On the drive to the dealership, the voltage read "13V" (I assume that equals somewhere between 13.0 a nd 13.9). The dealer determined a failed battery and installed a new one. Leaving the dealership upon start the voltage read) 12V for a couple seconds then 13 and then 14 Volts. The first drive session showed 14V during the drive. After Driving several more sessions, the voltage reading that I have now is 13V with 14V indicating when I am at idle at a stop (approx 700 rpm) When engine rpm rises above (~1000?) the voltage decreases to 13V indicated.
My research for normal driving voltage range so far has these results..
#1 - "13.7 to 14.7"
#2 - "14 Volts or higher"
#3 - "13.8 - 14.2 is the typical"
#4 - "13.5 to 14V"
#5 - "P0562 is a common OBD-II trouble code. It’s a general code, which means that it means the same thing for any vehicle, including the Dodge Ram. P0562 indicates that the system voltage is below 10 volts for a solid minute. With the engine running, the system voltage should be 14.1-14.4 volts, and it’s typically caused by a bad alternator. It’s very common to get the battery light with P0562.
It may be that what I am seeing is normal.
I fully expected to replace major components when I reached about 180,000 miles. I do intend to keep my 2016 Ecodeisel well into the future with an understanding that it won't be cheap but in comparison to a new vehicle... much cheaper. As long as I continue to like the truck and btw, it was new when I bought it... and also a retirement present.
JR / EcoDeisel w/ 203,000+miles
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Last edited:
J.R.
New Member
- Jan 25, 2025
- 3
- 0
- Truck Year
- 2016
As a Post Scipt, I add that I have kept up with each recall and had all completed. I believe that is a must with this vehicle and maybe all. The Tone Wheel was an actual recall item. The year of my truck was included in the recall (W68 as I remember) however, my specific vin number was outside of the range. As I stated, I have a late year 2016 ecodeisel. The Tone Wheel that was installed was an improved part that may yet be a further improved part as compared to your 2020. In any case, check the recall for your vin.
JR
JR