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Intake Manifold Removal

-STIGLITZ-

Active Member
Nov 17, 2019
145
45
Truck Year
2017
Hello All!

I want to remove my stock intake manifold and clean it up. Is this a fairly straight forward process? It appears to be as simple as removing 8 or so bolts. Is there anything I should know, beforehand? Thanks in advance!
 

John

Well-Known Member
Nov 13, 2015
1,186
386
I think it's a bit more involved than removing 8 or so bolts. Wait for TC to reply. Pretty sure he's done it before.
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
Yeah it's much more involved than that. Nearly the whole engine wiring harness has to come off, alldata has an online repair manual, good for somethings others not. But it's good for intake manifold removal. Be prepared to spend a few hours cleaning it's not fun. If you have the money put a banks manifold on. Deleting the swirl valves really opens it up.
 

67_Valiant

Member
Feb 9, 2020
51
18
Truck Year
2015
I'm in the middle of this right now. It's a pretty major project. By "deleting the swirl valves", do you mean removing them, or disabling them in an "open" position?
 

Bullet

New Member
Feb 11, 2020
16
4
Truck Year
2016
Speaking of the Banks Intake Manifold; Who/where has the best price on these? I’ve seen only a small price range difference by a couple of outfits.
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
Removing them completely. But the best way to go is with the Banks manifold it's expensive but worth it, the factory is just junk.
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
I would suggest leaving the servo motor on the bottom to keep it sealed up
 

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Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
You have to remove the driver's side fuel lines, mainly to get the wiring harness off which crosses under the fuel lines and around them. Also the fuel line coming from the hpfp can just be disconnected from the rail. You can reuse the lines, I have 4 times and not one problem. The rail itself have 2 torque bolt which are a tough to get to because they are so tight again the manifold, I used a super short torque bit with a 8mm open end wrench to loosen then. First time I didn't remove the rail I sawed a small part of the manifold off so it would fit past it. Without penetrating the inside of the manifold.
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
Just take alot of pictures, label things, you can't get sensors mixed up because they will only fit in the right sockets, zip tie the main fuel block on top of the manifold out of the way, remove the oil fill neck. The turbo outlet neck can be tough. I cut down an Allen so it would fit. Then when reassembling use normal bolts wherever you can. The manifold has a torque sequence you must follow, and you can reuse the gasket. If your going through the trouble I would put a banks manifold on it. But the job sounds worse than it really is.
 

EcoGC

New Member
Mar 23, 2020
11
2
Truck Year
2015
Excellent thank you so much. Im doing this on a Grand cherokee, so it looks like there is a lot more room than the Ram. The turbo outlet I have replaced with the CFT performance one, so I do have experience with that. a 4 inch long, hex drive, ball head allen works perfectly to remove the bolts holding it down. Martin at MRTuning told me that they use the swirl valves to aid in warm up, but I do have a tune and also have the EGR delete plates in place. I already bought a OEM manifold that has a new MAP sensor in it. Thank you for the help
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
Np, from what I've read the swirl valves pull in soot particulates from the egr by creating greater vacuum. It seriously frees things up when them gone
 

EcoGC

New Member
Mar 23, 2020
11
2
Truck Year
2015
Well since the EGR is blocked off now, maybe I will just remove the swirl valves
 

Foxracingx02

Member
Sep 13, 2019
37
15
Truck Year
2015
The OEM is plastic junk, seriously you will continue to have issues with it. Did the cft performance turbo neck make a difference? And was it worth the 200$
 

EcoGC

New Member
Mar 23, 2020
11
2
Truck Year
2015
I actually made the mistake of purchasing the entire CFT intercooler pipe kit. It is absolute and utter garbage. 3" piping is too large for the GC, the bends were wrong, the pipe lengths were wrong, and the temp sensor didn't fit properly. CFT doesn't take returns, nor refunds so I was stuck with it. That being said, I did keep the turbo outlet, and the throttle extension housing, and then built my own intercooler plumbing (2.5") and installed an aftermarket intercooler. I did all of this at the same time that I got my tune from MRTuning, so I couldn't really say that the turbo outlet by itself made any difference. The only good thing about the CFT outlet tube and throttle extension, is that it allows you to use normal T-bolt clamps and Silicone couplers. $200 dollars for a $15 dollar elbow, that has a home made flange and bung welded onto it, is not at all worth what CFT charges for it. Any decent fabrication place could make it for you for 50 bucks.
 
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