Oil Filter Housing Parts

[s0231198]

I have a 2015 Ram with the ecodiesel, and changed my oil, and when I pulled the oil filter and went to put the new one in, there was a spring and what looks like a check valve of some type laying in the bottom on the housing. After looking around online, can not find the part or figure out what it does. There is a hole on the firewall side inside where the filter goes, which appears to be where it goes. Does anyone know what this part could be for, and how important it is. Also if can find it anywhere, or have to replace the entire Oil Cooler/Filter housing?

 

[TC Diesel]

Depending on what circuit/port, yes its important, if its the return port from the exchanger it regulates the OIL PSI. the exchange have failed on the 3.0s if it does the Coolant pressure will be higher then the Oil PSI you will have coolant in your lube and coolant and lube with High CAL will produce abrasive material and your engine will have wear to eventual BOOM.

The other use is drain back, it stops the lube from draining back to the crankcase when shutdown.

 

[s0231198]

I don't believe it's the drain back valve, I believe that is the part that gets pushed down with the filter when it is tightened, or atleast looks like it should. This would be on the opposite side of that inside where the filter is at., just wasn't sure what the part name would be because don't see it on any part diagram online for the filter housing, it looks like a little cup that is cutout on 4 sides, with looks like a little check valve inside of it, and goes into a spring, and not sure if there is clips on it that hold it into the hole bc nothing looks like it broke off for it to come out, but looks like there maybe a o ring missing from the cup. and it goes into maybe a 3/8" hole underneath the edge of the filter. Would rather replace that part if can rather then replacing the entire filter housing.

 

[Xingerbay]

Same exact thing happened to me last night, anyone have some additional info on this matter, rubber o ring is missing which is what seems to hold it in place inside the port, I put a new o ring on it but broke the plastic diverter not sure the actual name, from what I’ve been reading it holds oil in the filter for quicker start up Lube, I drove mine today and I hope it not a critical part.
Anyone have some info to add on this?

 

[Gabe]

Hello
New on the site.
I had the same issue; anyone would know where to get the replacement spring + little plastic cap for the bypass ??

 

[fromthesticks556]

Just had this happen has anyone had any updates on this.

 

[forteau falcon]

Just had this happen has anyone had any updates on this.

Same here.
went to my local dodge dealership and all they could recommend is getting the whole filter assembly.
is there an o ring that holds it in place? The spring and the plastic cup on mine seems to be in perfect condition and doesn’t look like anything is broken.

 

[MyRED]

I just had the same issue with a DIY oil change. From what I can find in a few hours of searching, the part that is out is the back drain valve. It lets the oil out of the housing when you do an oil change and keeps it in the housing/filter otherwise. Has anyone found these for sale anywhere without the whole housing/cooler assembly? Looks like a $2 part which requires a $500+ repair (in Canada) to replace. And can anyone say how important this part is, meaning, is it ok to run without it?

An update:
I called the dealer and spoke to a repair foreman . Although they weren't sure, they said 'it was designed as part of the engine so best not to run without it'. They gave me a quote for replacement of the assembly in Edmonton Canada: $990!

 

[Jjnewtonaz]

I just had the same issue with a DIY oil change. From what I can find in a few hours of searching, the part that is out is the back drain valve. It lets the oil out of the housing when you do an oil change and keeps it in the housing/filter otherwise. Has anyone found these for sale anywhere without the whole housing/cooler assembly? Looks like a $2 part which requires a $500+ repair (in Canada) to replace. And can anyone say how important this part is, meaning, is it ok to run without it?

An update:
I called the dealer and spoke to a repair foreman . Although they weren't sure, they said 'it was designed as part of the engine so best not to run without it'. They gave me a quote for replacement of the assembly in Edmonton Canada: $990!

Same issue. Tried a few oring sizes (109, 012, 108) Nothing seems to provide enough force to overcome the spring or it’s too tight for the plastic cup. I broke the plastic cup eventually trying a tight oring. I Would rather have the spring and cup out of there anyway if they’re not providing a seal, otherwise it’s just foreign debris that could end up in the engine.

Not sure the reason for this design. If an oring was intended to overcome the spring force than it was designed badly. An oring is a weak material intended to seal and should never be used to fasten or secure. My plastic cup and spring came loose from the oil cooler at about 90K miles. Been driving without the sealed bypass for about 7k miles now. Haven’t noticed any odd sounds or idiot lights. Wish I knew if this bypass was important or not. The oil coolers are expensive and a pain to swap with the oil and coolant gaskets sharing the same plane and the ac compressor is in the way. Really don’t want to swap it out for the same bad design just to have it fail again in 90K miles. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

[Ryders1]

Same issue. Tried a few oring sizes (109, 012, 108) Nothing seems to provide enough force to overcome the spring or it’s too tight for the plastic cup. I broke the plastic cup eventually trying a tight oring. I Would rather have the spring and cup out of there anyway if they’re not providing a seal, otherwise it’s just foreign debris that could end up in the engine.

Not sure the reason for this design. If an oring was intended to overcome the spring force than it was designed badly. An oring is a weak material intended to seal and should never be used to fasten or secure. My plastic cup and spring came loose from the oil cooler at about 90K miles. Been driving without the sealed bypass for about 7k miles now. Haven’t noticed any odd sounds or idiot lights. Wish I knew if this bypass was important or not. The oil coolers are expensive and a pain to swap with the oil and coolant gaskets sharing the same plane and the ac compressor is in the way. Really don’t want to swap it out for the same bad design just to have it fail again in 90K miles. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Just broke mine as well, I’m ordering a new oil filter housing. Then I’ll 3d model a new cup and post it online for free. Terrible design, in my opinion. Pandering for money possibly?

 

[Jjnewtonaz]

Just broke mine as well, I’m ordering a new oil filter housing. Then I’ll 3d model a new cup and post it online for free. Terrible design, in my opinion. Pandering for money possibly?

I considered 3d printing as well but was worried about the oil contamination on the pla or abs. Plus I’m pretty sure any 3d printed plastic part will break during installation. It’s a very thin part. Wish I could confirm that an oring was used to retain the spring force. I pressed a very tight fitting oring and the spring still pressed it out immediately. I went a little tighter and the basket broke. A full assembly drawing of the oil cooler would be nice. I think I’ll buy a new one too. Then I can break down the old one and figure out a future fix.

 

[Ryders1]

I considered 3d printing as well but was worried about the oil contamination on the pla or abs. Plus I’m pretty sure any 3d printed plastic part will break during installation. It’s a very thin part. Wish I could confirm that an oring was used to retain the spring force. I pressed a very tight fitting oring and the spring still pressed it out immediately. I went a little tighter and the basket broke. A full assembly drawing of the oil cooler would be nice. I think I’ll buy a new one too. Then I can break down the old one and figure out a future fix.

I too am worried about the oil contamination. Im thinking about modifying it a bit to make it stronger, but even then, the temp of the oil is higher than the glass transition of the PLA/PETG… I don’t want to introduce any more foreign objects into this engine than I have to, maybe I’ll try to make it out of aluminum or something. Someone should start manufacturing these and selling them for 15 bucks a piece. I know I’d buy one!

 

[Vmartynyuk]

Same issue here the spring popped out when I was changing the filter. Anyone figured it out how to stick it back in there?

 

[darekss18]

Same issue here the spring popped out when I was changing the filter. Anyone figured it out how to stick it back in there?

Same thing. It popped out and it isn’t broken however I can’t stick it back in the hole cause nothing is holding it and it keeps popping out. Have you found a solution?

 

[Gregnew]

Same issue for me any solutions yet?

 

[GWHilliard]

Had the same issue I used a slide hammer puller to remove the steel ring in the hole then used

GM Performance Parts GM Parts 25161284 Oil Filter Bypass Valve for Big Block Chevy​

from Amazon. Slightly bigger diameter so filed down to match diameter of the removed steel ring. total labor time less than a half hour