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Oil Spec Recall/TSB - Grounds for Class-Action?

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
VERY interesting reading, thank you for that!! I don't even remember seeing Rotella T6 in the wear ratings chart. My reading for wear resistance shows me that 0w20w Quaker State Ultimate Durability has more wear protection than just about any other oil out there. It rated INCREDIBLE for wear prevention, even at higher temperatures. Who would have thought......?

Don't forget we drive diesels and needs an oil suitable for Diesel engines. The correct oils are designed to control the soot that our engines produce, a gasoline engine oil does not typically contain the correct additives for Diesel engine use
 

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
Don't forget we drive diesels and needs an oil suitable for Diesel engines. The correct oils are designed to control the soot that our engines produce, a gasoline engine oil does not typically contain the correct additives for Diesel engine use
“NEW” 15W40 Shell Rotella T Diesel Oil API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4, CF/SM, conventional (lab tested 2012)
Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 29 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, anti-wear)
Magnesium = 9 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2848 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Zinc = 1454 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 1062 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 0 ppm (anti-wear)
Potassium = 14 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 6 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 9.1 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 15.0 (cSt range for SAE 40 is 12.5 to 16.2) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.

Quaker State 5W30 Ultimate Durability API SN synthetic (lab tested 2011)
Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 4 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, anti-wear)
Magnesium = 10 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2831 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Zinc = 877 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 921 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 72 ppm (anti-wear)
Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 0 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 7.9 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 10.5 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
While this is all new to me, I can see some differences in the Boron and Molybdenum, Calcium, Zinc, etc but..nothing that throws a huge flag for me. Also, if you read the Engineers Research in this document, it shows he has proven the hype about added Zinc to be just that, hype.
I will look further in case I am missing something, but he maintains that the most important function of engine oil is wear prevention. All the rest is secondary to that function and, has been beaten into our brains by advertising and "internet theory". Good article, lengthy but good.
 
Last edited:

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
“NEW” 15W40 Shell Rotella T Diesel Oil API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4, CF/SM, conventional (lab tested 2012)
Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 29 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, anti-wear)
Magnesium = 9 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2848 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Zinc = 1454 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 1062 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 0 ppm (anti-wear)
Potassium = 14 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 6 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 9.1 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 15.0 (cSt range for SAE 40 is 12.5 to 16.2) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
Quaker State 5W30 Ultimate Durability API SN synthetic (lab tested 2011)
Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 4 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, anti-wear)
Magnesium = 10 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2831 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Zinc = 877 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 921 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 72 ppm (anti-wear)
Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 0 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 7.9 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 10.5 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
While this is all new to me, I can see some differences in the Boron and Molybdenum, Calcium, Zinc, etc but..nothing that throws a huge flag for me. Also, if you read the Engineers Research in this document, it shows he has proven the hype about added Zinc to be just that, hype.
I will look further in case I am missing something, but he maintains that the most important function of engine oil is wear prevention. All the rest is secondary to that function and, has been beaten into our brains by advertising and "internet theory". Good article, lengthy but good.
Okay, I see the GF-5 (gas) vs the CK-4 ratings (diesel) having to do with soot buildup (which increases viscosity and shearing) and longevity of DPF and emissions devices. I am seeing differences in the Boron content, but the Calcium is similar, Zinc is lower but we supposedly don't care, so, when comparing the anti soot/sludge additives, I don't see a HUGE difference at all. I answered my own question (kind of), but still questioning it.....
 
Last edited:

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
Okay, I see the GF-5 (gas) vs the CK-4 ratings (diesel) having to do with soot buildup (which increases viscosity and shearing) and longevity of DPF and emissions devices. I am seeing differences in the Boron content, but the Calcium is similar, Zinc is lower but we supposedly don't care, so, when comparing the anti soot/sludge additives, I don't see a HUGE difference at all. I answered my own question (kind of), but still questioning it.....

I just looked again further down in the testing data and found this: Diesel engines don't operate at the high rpm that gasoline engines do (although 4,000 rpm is pretty high for the ecoDiesel per se) so, I am worried about the pressure values (wear prevention ratings in psi) for really no good reason. I see, however, where a faster flowing oil (IE: lower viscosity) takes away heat better. I am also seeing some Diesel engine oils with total detergent/dispersant/anti-deposit build-up/anti-sludge additive packages totaling as high as 3393 PPM and as low as 1593 PPM. the total additive package for the 05w20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability oil is 2845 PPM which would seem quite satisfactory (I think the anti soot packages have been increased for gassers due to E10 and the availability of E85). The author says it comes down to a matter of cost (since we use 12 quarts or more vs 5 or 6), so, since most diesel engines don't run at high rpm, the highest “Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength” diesel oil is 85,663 psi vs the highest gas engine oil being over 126,000 psi. (Told you this was quite interesting!). I am seeing a GREATER danger (specified by the author) of using DIESEL engine oil in a GASOLINE engine vs the other way around.
Diesel oils also have a lower temperature where thermal breakdown STARTS, (conventional diesel oils starts at 255* and synthetic starts at 267* which are 17* and 15* lower than gas engine oils on average) which, for me is a cause for concern when I am towing up a 5% grade at 3300 rpm, and watching my temperature gauge go up, (stock tune, original 5w30 oil in the sump) knowing everything else is getting hotter too (I remember looking at the oil temp but I don't remember how high it got). How long you run at the higher temperatures is the key to how quickly it takes a toll on the oil (Of course it won't fail completely at the first occurrence but it WILL be degraded)..I can imagine that the added benefit of a larger sump/quantity of oil helps make a difference but, how much? This is where the 0w20 or the 5w20 (faster flowing/better heat removal) may be more beneficial. All food for thought.
 
Last edited:

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
I didn't read the whole thing cause I got bored, but did the author state anything how a lighter weight oil shears quicker causing premature wear to crucial engine parts? Seemed to me the main test was his version of a anti wear/pressure test. There's a reason Diesel engines have been running 15w-40 or 5w-40 for a very long time. I heavily caution against 0w-20 in your ecodiesel.
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
Oil number 161 the best stuff ever on the planet- rotella T6!

161. 5W40 SHELL ROTELLA T6 Diesel Oil, synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, SM, SL = 67,804 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
 

Older Slower Wiser

New Member
Dec 10, 2016
17
4
Truck Year
2015
I believe the thicker 15w40 diesel oils are used to compensate for fuel to oil dilution. Put a few thousand miles on some of the larger on highway Diesel engines then have the oil viscosity checked you find that viscosities are reduced due to fuel in the oil.
 

cevans

Active Member
Nov 1, 2015
141
90
Truck Year
2014
I believe the thicker 15w40 diesel oils are used to compensate for fuel to oil dilution. Put a few thousand miles on some of the larger on highway Diesel engines then have the oil viscosity checked you find that viscosities are reduced due to fuel in the oil.

The opposite happens: oil INCREASES in viscosity due to increased soot loads.
 

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
I didn't read the whole thing cause I got bored, but did the author state anything how a lighter weight oil shears quicker causing premature wear to crucial engine parts? Seemed to me the main test was his version of a anti wear/pressure test. There's a reason Diesel engines have been running 15w-40 or 5w-40 for a very long time. I heavily caution against 0w-20 in your ecodiesel.
No. The author stated that the reason for the pressure testing is to test how the FILM protects, vs the "hydroscopic wedge" running in between the bearings and the journals. (Which per the author, regardless of weight has the same psi load in that capacity) It has mostly to do with formulation. Some of the lighter weight oils had better pressure resistance which I believe equates to better film protection/shear resistance. I would have to reread the article to confirm that. He also stated the bit about the higher weight oils flowing more slowly, causing starvation/poor flow during cold weather start ups, and, causing higher bearing temps near the rod and crank bearings, thereby causing heat build up and higher sump temperatures. The lighter weight oils flow better reducing heat. I also think he mentioned shearing as less of a problem in modern engines due to roller lifters and OHC designs.
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
No. The author stated that the reason for the pressure testing is to test how the FILM protects, vs the "hydroscopic wedge" running in between the bearings and the journals. (Which per the author, regardless of weight has the same psi load in that capacity) It has mostly to do with formulation. Some of the lighter weight oils had better pressure resistance which I believe equates to better film protection/shear resistance. I would have to reread the article to confirm that. He also stated the bit about the higher weight oils flowing more slowly, causing starvation/poor flow during cold weather start ups, and, causing higher bearing temps near the rod and crank bearings, thereby causing heat build up and higher sump temperatures. The lighter weight oils flow better reducing heat. I also think he mentioned shearing as less of a problem in modern engines due to roller lifters and OHC designs.
I understand the science behind his testing, however I have seen first hand excessive wear on internal engine parts and major engine overhauls needed due to lighter weight engine oils being used in diesels. Cam lobes almost completely ground flat and bearings from rods and main bearings being worn extremely bad. The author of this article has good science behind his findings, however for a Diesel engine application with extended drain intervals such as we run in the Ecodiesel I don't trust the lighter weight oils at all. Especially if they're not Diesel engine approved.
 

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
I understand the science behind his testing, however I have seen first hand excessive wear on internal engine parts and major engine overhauls needed due to lighter weight engine oils being used in diesels. Cam lobes almost completely ground flat and bearings from rods and main bearings being worn extremely bad. The author of this article has good science behind his findings, however for a Diesel engine application with extended drain intervals such as we run in the Ecodiesel I don't trust the lighter weight oils at all. Especially if they're not Diesel engine approved.

I do NOT disagree with the diesel engine approved point. I have conceded that in earlier statements. (Although I did argue that some of the detergent/additive packages in both gas and diesel oils are "similar", hence rated for use in both)

Quotes from the blog:

...."Motor oil exists in “TWO” forms inside an engine, under which it needs to protect against wear. They are as follows:

1. “Liquid oil” which can be defined as oil thick enough to drip, run, pour or flow.

2. An “oil film” can be defined as a coating of oil too thin to drip, run, pour or flow.

An example of oil in “liquid” form, is in the rod and main bearing clearance, where the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge is formed between the crankshaft journals and its bearing shells, as the oil is pulled in by the rotating crankshaft. Oil pressure does not keep the parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply oil to be pulled in between the parts.

The fact is, liquids cannot be compressed to allow metal to metal contact, so parts are kept separated and no wear or damage can take place. In liquid form, it does not matter what the oil’s viscosity is, what brand it is, how hot it is, nor how much it costs. Because in the incompressible liquid form, all motor oils provide the same unsurpassed wear protection."...."the ONLY THING that separates one oil’s ability to prevent wear from another oil’s ability to prevent wear, is the difference in their individual film strength capabilities."...

(Since we don't know the exact formulation of the "lower viscosity" oil you claimed caused excessive wear, it could be reasonably true that the oil did not have the correct anti-foaming agents, acid reducing agents and, had poor film strength. )
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
I do NOT disagree with the diesel engine approved point. I have conceded that in earlier statements. (Although I did argue that some of the detergent/additive packages in both gas and diesel oils are "similar", hence rated for use in both)

Quotes from the blog:

...."Motor oil exists in “TWO” forms inside an engine, under which it needs to protect against wear. They are as follows:

1. “Liquid oil” which can be defined as oil thick enough to drip, run, pour or flow.

2. An “oil film” can be defined as a coating of oil too thin to drip, run, pour or flow.

An example of oil in “liquid” form, is in the rod and main bearing clearance, where the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge is formed between the crankshaft journals and its bearing shells, as the oil is pulled in by the rotating crankshaft. Oil pressure does not keep the parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply oil to be pulled in between the parts.

The fact is, liquids cannot be compressed to allow metal to metal contact, so parts are kept separated and no wear or damage can take place. In liquid form, it does not matter what the oil’s viscosity is, what brand it is, how hot it is, nor how much it costs. Because in the incompressible liquid form, all motor oils provide the same unsurpassed wear protection."...."the ONLY THING that separates one oil’s ability to prevent wear from another oil’s ability to prevent wear, is the difference in their individual film strength capabilities."...

(Since we don't know the exact formulation of the "lower viscosity" oil you claimed caused excessive wear, it could be reasonably true that the oil did not have the correct anti-foaming agents, acid reducing agents and, had poor film strength. )
You really seem to be on one, you go ahead and run what bob the engineer says to run in your pickup because what he says is gospel. The lighter weight oil that was used in the engines in question was Rotella T5 10w-30 which is a Diesel engine oil Records and oil samples were taken throughout the engines life so it wasn't like nobody knew what was happening.
If you want to run Quaker State 0w-20 oil in your pickup cause some engineer says it's good and will work on paper suit yourself, don't come complaining on the forum when you have catastrophic engine failure and no one to blame, but yourself. This article you keep quoting would be common knowledge and everyone would be running gasoline engine oil in their diesels, preferably the 0w-20 Quaker State blend.
 

R Stanley

Member
Dec 22, 2016
41
23
Truck Year
2016
I would think, we'll I will say I am going to run oil with what the manufacturer specs out for this truck, while under warranty, and will probably continue after warranty is up, i like the oil, that blog is good reading and people might learn some things they did not know. Just do not let them lead you down the wrong road, I would not bet that blog against the manufacturer when you have a warranty issue and it has to do with engine and oil while under warranty or even after warranty for that matter. They know how to OA's if they wanted to.
 

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
You really seem to be on one, you go ahead and run what bob the engineer says to run in your pickup because what he says is gospel. The lighter weight oil that was used in the engines in question was Rotella T5 10w-30 which is a Diesel engine oil Records and oil samples were taken throughout the engines life so it wasn't like nobody knew what was happening.
If you want to run Quaker State 0w-20 oil in your pickup cause some engineer says it's good and will work on paper suit yourself, don't come complaining on the forum when you have catastrophic engine failure and no one to blame, but yourself. This article you keep quoting would be common knowledge and everyone would be running gasoline engine oil in their diesels, preferably the 0w-20 Quaker State blend.
That is NOT what I was advocating. I clearly stated I gave that up after further research and consideration. Bob the engineer(as you call him) has clearly shown Empirical Data to prove what he is saying. If you want to get all up in your emotions and cling to the old standards, go for it. Was only stating what was PROVEN in his testing. He also shows that Rotella (sacred cow?) scores lower in his pressure ratings. I guess that ticks you off because it is flying in the face of everything you know???
I am currently looking at what the manufacturer recommends (had my oil change done at the "stealership") and was (I thought) having adult conversation about which oil really protects.
By the way, I clearly seem to be on one what?
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
That is NOT what I was advocating. I clearly stated I gave that up after further research and consideration. Bob the engineer(as you call him) has clearly shown Empirical Data to prove what he is saying. If you want to get all up in your emotions and cling to the old standards, go for it. Was only stating what was PROVEN in his testing. He also shows that Rotella (sacred cow?) scores lower in his pressure ratings. I guess that ticks you off because it is flying in the face of everything you know???
I am currently looking at what the manufacturer recommends (had my oil change done at the "stealership") and was (I thought) having adult conversation about which oil really protects.
By the way, I clearly seem to be on one what?
I personally really dislike Rotella, it is no sacred cow to me I think it's over rated garbage in a bottle. That being said it meets a spec and it's what our vehicle manufacturer recommends. That article actually proves nothing other than some pressure testing and a small glimpse into the oils additive packages. The only way to know how any of those oils would perform in a Diesel engine application would be to have years worth of used oil analysis done across a broad spectrum of engines. The article doesn't go against anything I know. It also doesn't prove which oil actually protects, it only shows what oil should protect when it's brand new based on a single test. It doesn't show how well an oil sticks to internal parts after an engine is shut off, it also doesn't show how an oil works 5k miles into a service interval or how the TBN holds up throughout the life of the oil. I'm more than willing to have a good conversation about oils, but I don't think basing my knowledge of oil off of what one guy says would be my source for all my responses.
 

fhedrickjr

Member
Dec 15, 2016
75
23
Truck Year
2015
I personally really dislike Rotella, it is no sacred cow to me I think it's over rated garbage in a bottle. That being said it meets a spec and it's what our vehicle manufacturer recommends. That article actually proves nothing other than some pressure testing and a small glimpse into the oils additive packages. The only way to know how any of those oils would perform in a Diesel engine application would be to have years worth of used oil analysis done across a broad spectrum of engines. The article doesn't go against anything I know. It also doesn't prove which oil actually protects, it only shows what oil should protect when it's brand new based on a single test. It doesn't show how well an oil sticks to internal parts after an engine is shut off, it also doesn't show how an oil works 5k miles into a service interval or how the TBN holds up throughout the life of the oil. I'm more than willing to have a good conversation about oils, but I don't think basing my knowledge of oil off of what one guy says would be my source for all my responses.
This ONE GUY is the only one who does tests like this. His pedigree speaks for itself. He actually DID do some tests on oils with 5k miles on them and also explained quite a bit of why he believes the tests he performs are quality tests that actually DO corroborate real world results of engines using certain oil formulations. He also did the tests under a normal heat range and excessive heat. Too bad you got "bored" and quit reading. Maybe instead of beating me down about the Science of his blog, you should go back and read it. It most certainly DOES prove which oils have the best film/protection offered, rated from best to worst. I am seeing that this conversation is like Religion and Politics. Some people will not be open to information that they do not agree with.
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
This ONE GUY is the only one who does tests like this. His pedigree speaks for itself. He actually DID do some tests on oils with 5k miles on them and also explained quite a bit of why he believes the tests he performs are quality tests that actually DO corroborate real world results of engines using certain oil formulations. He also did the tests under a normal heat range and excessive heat. Too bad you got "bored" and quit reading. Maybe instead of beating me down about the Science of his blog, you should go back and read it. It most certainly DOES prove which oils have the best film/protection offered, rated from best to worst. I am seeing that this conversation is like Religion and Politics. Some people will not be open to information that they do not agree with.
I did go back and read the deal. I'm not beating you down about the science of his blog, I'm telling you not to put all your cards in his basket. I do find it funny how you bring religion and politics into it like it's a bad thing, like a character flaw of my own, yet you're the one who read something and now believe it to be gospel and won't open yourself up to the thought that the guy might potentially be wrong. After reading some of the Q&A's they guy flaunts his mechanical engineering degree like it's something that puts him on the same level of intelligence as Einstein or Stephen Hawking. He offers very vague theories on why all diesel engine oils, other than the gas/diesel Euro spec oils perform quite poorly in the pressure test. I'm asking you to do more research on diesel engine oils, do not look at his blog for advice on diesel engines, it's clearly geared mostly towards gasoline vehicles. Utilize tools such as Bob is the Oil Guy, or the old google search function, or maybe get in touch with some oil engineers. Almost every diesel engine I've been around to date calls for either 15w40 or 5w40 DIESEL ENGINE OIL, my ford 6.7 came factory filled with 10w30 Diesel Engine Oil. None have come factory filled with Quaker State 0w20 or any gasoline engine oil for that matter. Here's a quote from another oil expert that might actually know what he's talking about, rather than stating some gas and diesel engine oils have similar additive packages, so they should be interchangeable.
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. Which is the exact reason every oil rep and diesel engine builder uses diesel engine oil in their diesel engines. Look into TBN in gas vs diesel engine oils, something I don't recall seeing in your oil guru's paperwork. Just because an oil has similar additive pack numbers doesn't not mean the concentration is the same.
I also haven't beat you down about the science in his blog, i recall saying he has some good science in his blog on multiple occasions, but if you like you said read it through to the end you would have noticed on multiple occasions it was geared towards high performance gasoline engines with little to no knowledge on diesel engines.
Have you ever stopped to think, try it sometime, if this one guy is the only one that tests like this, why is he the only one that thinks like this? If he is indeed correct in his thinking he should be compensated accordingly and his blog should be printed as oil gospel. Is he really that smart or is he wrong and found a niche group of people that are dumb enough to buy into his garbage? Kind of like a cult following if you want to bring religion into it.
I hope you realize how stupid we both sound, Mark the mechanical engineer could tell you patchouli oil was the best lubricating oil on the planet and give a half ass smart sounding explanation of why, and you'd believe him. I'm open to new and different ideas, I'm just very skeptical of people that claim to have developed the only way to test engine oil and is a self proclaimed guru and the only one to do things a certain way.
 

bobcat67

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
88
Truck Year
2016
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3019857
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2661795/1

I want this argument to be over, and near as I can tell your boy 540 rat is indeed wrong, the pressures he's tested to aren't relevant to an internal combustion engine. His science is good, but it is incredibly flawed and more research needs to be done. Look into how everyone else that actually sets standards tests engine oils. THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS IS IN A RUNNING ENGINE, PERIOD!!! The highest performing engine rarely see about 1500psi during compression, therefore a test to the high heavens of 100,000 psi is not an accurate indicator of wear protection because it isn't a relevant pressure seen during internal combustion. You can continue believing your oil cult, but please don't try to spread this malarkey to the masses. Read those threads, and do some research on your own and you will see the flaws in 540 rat's thinking.
 
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