Wow Polecat. That really sucks. I had to do a lemon law buyback before. It was a time consuming process. The manufacturer kept claiming I was modding the car and that was the reason so they were fighting it every step. It was a very expensive German car.
They finally gave in and settled with me after I saw had the same issue I brought it in for before I even left the dealer's lot from having it "fixed" yet again. What really ticked me off is how difficult they were being with me about it in the first place. To put this more in perspective, I'd spent over 400k with the manufacturer in 5 years on new vehicles. So to fight me over an issue like this was really stupid on their part. I got the car bought back and never bought another vehicle from that manufacturer since. They lost a lot of money on me.
If you have a long history with the company, long time ownership, a lot of their cars/trucks make sure you always bring this up with them. Keep records of everything and every call. Also point out you are describing your issues on all sorts of social media such as this forum, Facebook, etc. Make sure YOU know your responsibilities under the lemon laws in your state.
I always try and give the company a chance to take care of the issue first before I bring the big guns to bear. Don't forget you can also right the attorney general of your state as well if you aren't getting anywhere after 2 months or so. This process isn't normally quick.
I used Amsoil in my Powerstroke. Any opinions on this brand for th eEcodiesel? I'm new to this game. Just paid $200 for my first service at the dealershipAll the drama about MS-11106 seems to be over with FCA changing their oil recommendation recently. All the new owners manual diesel supplements now say:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
This now aligns with the recommendations for the Cummins engines. CJ-4 is an API specification for low-ash formulation motor oils and can include 10w and 15w oils in both synthetic and non-synthetic formulations. Importantly though only synthetic 5w40 is approved for our engines.
ACEA is the European equivalent of API and their A3/B4 specification is also a low-ash formulation.
Was the powerstroke a 7.3 or 6.0? Those engines really benefit from the Synthetic oils because of the HEUI injection system. I wouldn't see any harm in running amsoil in an ecodiesel. They seem to make good productsI used Amsoil in my Powerstroke. Any opinions on this brand for th eEcodiesel? I'm new to this game. Just paid $200 for my first service at the dealership
I used Amsoil in my Powerstroke. Any opinions on this brand for th eEcodiesel? I'm new to this game. Just paid $200 for my first service at the dealership
The vital information you're looking for varies by oil brand and type. There is no set in stone number. Regular petroleum based oils (not synthetic) usually degrade at 240 degrees. Synthetic can be over twice that. I would worry more about why it got that hot, not how hot you can get your oil. Something might be wrong with the oil cooler. What were doing when it got that hot? I assume not just cruising aroundI've read all your interesting posts. Now where is the vital information about temperature and thermal breakdown. I have entered this site on the oil temperature side. I have seen temperatures in the 274 degree region. My dealer hear in the Pacific Northwest wanted the oil changed. My concern about these temperature is should I be looking at "Evans" nonwater based coolant, and just where is the heat maximum for these oils.
This is a picture I took off of the back of a Schaeffers 5w-40 9000 Diesel engine oil, says it withstands temps up to 300 degrees higher than normal motor oil, assuming the number they're going off of is 240 that would mean 540 degrees, I don't like to assume anything, but that's good for thoughtI was towing a 6,500 lb travel trailer in a tail wind on the Ashland summit grade NB / I-5 just in Oregon leaving California. I have whatever the selling dealer put in it on its second oil change. The ram is a '15 ED. It tows nice, just annoying that under some conditions it really has no "cooler", just that lousy warmer.
After the $200 oil change that the dealer wanted because of the heat, I did the deed at 26,500 miles and they told me that all is well, but no reason for the high temperature. Other than towing in a tail wind on a steep grade to 4,400 ft. I have no idea what was in it, and no idea what they put in it. I have towed the trailer twice since, once to Canada. Nothing got warmer than 242 and there are a few minor climbs toward Bellingham Washington.
I was using the Amsoil European formula as it met the ACEA C3 & MS-11106 specs. Just about to order another case of this as I am getting ready for my second oil change. Should I keep going with this or change to the 5W-40 Premium Synthetic (same as #107 post). Do I need to wait for the updated flash from the dealer??. 2015 Eco SLT.New to forum and have enjoyed the oil discussion, what about Amsoil, has one of the highest TBN's?
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You don't need the software updates for the oil update, I would switch to the 5w-40 premium synthetic, chances are it's cheaper and possibly a higher quality lubricant, I don't know the specs on AMSOIL, but I know if you're interested they usually have their VOA or some sort of data on their oilsI was using the Amsoil European formula as it met the ACEA C3 & MS-11106 specs. Just about to order another case of this as I am getting ready for my second oil change. Should I keep going with this or change to the 5W-40 Premium Synthetic (same as #107 post). Do I need to wait for the updated flash from the dealer??. 2015 Eco SLT.
Thx for the info bobcat, found this link and thought that it might be useful
http://www.oildepot.ca/5w-40-motor-oil-now-suggested-all-ecodiesel-engines/