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You need IQ, IDash ,CTS or some app that reads Active Regens, Most EDs 200-300 mile Active cycles , it worth the Money to Buy the device. Be careful on forums...... losts of Armchair wanna be mechanics. GDE has no device available for displaying the info.

You need IQ, IDash ,CTS or some app that reads Active Regens, Most EDs 200-300 mile Active cycles , it worth the Money to Buy the device. Be careful on forums...... losts of Armchair wanna be mechanics. GDE has no device available for displaying the info.

It should be use as touch tone only IMO. OAs I would consider mandatory on the ED, given the history of 3 years of failures.

I change 7-8K miles, I do OAs every 4-8K , I like T-6

I have the same trucks in the Hemi and ED My mileage is 28-36% better in the ED on conditions. 30K miles on the Hemi $4,391 @ $2.05PG ,The ED 30K miles $2,903 @ $2.20PG, When I priced the trucks the ED was $2,491 more then the Hemi., I notice the ED 2017 3.0VM took a big jump in cost its like...

Why don't those Canadian post correctly Heeeeheeee

Don't mess with the tube, if you block anything do it at the up pipe before the actuator. theirs a sensor themocoupler in the EGR coolant chamber to measure the temp, so if you block it completely the code will always set, IQ Banks IQ.

You get Code P245B, it lights the CEL, but has NO effect on operating the vehicle, you can unplug the actuator but the coolant chamber has a bypass, but it does restrict the flow, MY ED been like this for 14 months I get the P245B occasionally ,I just clear it with My IQ.

Dennisj pictures please......... it would be really helpful, your the 1st 100K failure.

HOAT stands for Hybrid Organic Acid Technology, also known as G O-5. HOAT is an extended life antifreeze type. Hybrid OAT (HOAT) formulations are hybrid because additive packages contain ingredients from newer OAT ethylene glycol antifreeze types and the conventional ethylene glycol green...

Don't let Um wear you out......Stay on em...5 months that pathetic....

Polecat I don't know were you live or made the sale of your ED,,,, No buy back?

Up pipes are form the exhaust manifolds to Exhaust housing (Turbo) the 3.0 has another up pipe to EGR Chamber, TOP is the outlet side of turbo to exhaust or SCR/DPF.. I suppose you could look at the up pipe as the inlet to EGR chamber.

TOP Turbine outlet pipe / TUP Turbine up pipe , The EGR valve opens and closes electronically, the exhaust enters the EGR coolant chamber VIA TUP , Just prior to the EGR Chamber is the EGR Actuator, The EGR Actuator is vacuum operated. at the other end of the EGR coolant chamber is the EGR...

Nice Find..........

T-6 is Rotella 5-40W ,We have been supporting T-6 for EDs for 2 Years FCA finally Dropped MS11106 . The additive package in MS11106 is low in MAG,MOLY,ZINC these are extremely important for any diesel in long term ownership. The 3-way valve is another mod to consider..I'm working on that NOW...

Remove all the sound insulations , Both sides, Remove the CP4 pump cover place the 4 bolts back in threaded holes, I also keep the plastic engine cover off during summer months. Do you have Banks IQ or CTS ? If you don't unplugging the EGR actuator gate,it blocks 20/40% of the hot exhaust gases...

At time pictures can be misleading...If the soot jailed in the coolant chamber then the problem just moved .

Remove diffuser tube and Map sensor and check.

I would give directions on how to preform what I am talking about..You could do this on your engine, then you could make you decision base on your own experience. It would be worth the effort. Like I stated earlier a lot of unknowns... I Hear Ya on opinions...I have found the so-called experts...