Turbo water coolant feed tube failure

[longshot]

26FT Lbs MAX, match it to the 22mm side also look over the sealing washers.

Ok, i guess. It seems like a bigger sealing surface/bolt should take more torque. What psi should I pressure test it to?

 

[John]

I would go with 15-18 PSI.

 

[billis]

I have a '14 Jeep ED. I just had the same thing happen to me. Found coolant on the garage floor. Removed the bottom panels to try and find where it was coming from, but couldn't. Filled full of water and drove it the 3 miles to the dealer. They said the turbo coolant return line was bad. They want to replace both lines, and the total comes to $1616.26. Totally rediculous if you ask me.
I'm researching things today and told them i would let them know tomorrow morning.

 

[TC Diesel]

Dealers are out of control..... On a Side Note remove all that foam Junk and Worthless Pump cover.. all that foam does is joke and suck the life out of Parts by keeping additional heat soaks... I also keep that plastic engine cover off during Spring-Fall.

 

[billis]

I got them to email me the parts list. I can order the parts and save half roughly on that portion. If I can find someone or somewhere that has the actual procedure for doing this, i'll do it myself. Looking for that as we speak...

 

[TC Diesel]

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[billis]

I'll give it a try! Thanks!

 

[John Hutchinson]

I have a 2015 Ecodiesel Grand Cherokee. Same part failure at 57,100 miles. $2129.35 at a dealer. I'm just starting to research my position and will argue with the dealer, then FCA.

Warranty says 100k on block and all "internal parts". Seems it must be pretty "internal" if you have to spend 14 hours, total labor of $1634.22 to replace it.

I don't know enough mechanical: is there an argument that this is a necessary part to comply with emissions standards? Parts lists online make some reference that sounds like it. If so, there is another warranty claim.

I think that there is an implied warranty under state law, also.

There is a dispute resolution process, like arbitration, fairly informal, in most states, I believe.I know there is one here in Michigan, which I will pursue if I don't get any initial relief.

I'd sure like to know how many of these failures there have been; perhaps another class action lawsuit here? If it looks like there may be enough to justify that it will at least get Jeep's attention to treat us right on these premature failures.

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

Why are dealerships charging customers that much? The hose is under the intake manifold and should only take a couple hours to change.

 

[John Hutchinson]

The service writer said they had not seen this problem before, so it may be that it took them a long time to diagnose? On the other hand, cost seems consistent amongst most posters here.My dealer seemed puzzled..Is it really that simple, pull the manifold, switch hoses and replace? I have seen stainless braided replacements advertised online for some vehicles; why didn't Jeep use that type of hose in what is apparently a very hot area?

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

Its probably because they dont know what there doing so they bill as if doing a turbo replacement. The turbo replacement is heavy on labor and time. Almost exactly what they quoted you. But there is no need to pull the turbo for just the coolant line.

 

[TDRAM73]

Hi all. So I had this same problem 1 week after I had the dealer flush my coolant system due to oil contamination from failed oil cooler. I replaced cooler flushed several times as best as I could and kept getting cel for 3-way coolant valve. Finally replaced valve also but still got cel so took to dealer to diagnose. They said they needed to flush coolant system so I let them and a week later I got the turbo coolant hose leak. My repair was a bargain I guess at $715 labor and $566 parts. Problem is when I took it home I kept smelling oil and or getting oil burning off the exhaust manifolds. I initially thought it was just residual oil from removing and replacing intake manifold but I noticed it was worse when accelerating from a stop and/or going uphill like oil was leaking out of the backside of the motor. It seemed to lessen probably because the oil level was dropping and so I drove it to work a couple days and then headed out of town on vacation. Was pulling a 6000lb. trailer on a 70 degree day up a 7% grade got maybe 20 miles out of town and that tube that comes up on the front driver side of motor blew off and truck went into limp mode. Switched trucks sent eco back to town with my mother she told them about limp mode and that there was oil residue all the way under truck even on safety chains on trailer. Dealer noted customer states limp mode and fluid leak. They cleaned egr of soot said that was reason for limp mode and never addressed oil leak. Got back from vacation picked it up, drove it a couple days parked it and decided it needed to go back to dealer. Took it in with no appointment and gave them 2 whole weeks before I called and they hadn't even touched it. Then they said they needed to lift the cab to find leak. I said no, went to pick it up was going to take to a shop 2 hrs. north and they talked me into leaving it. I said there was no way they didn't cause the oil leak when they fixed the turbo coolant hose. They said if they touched anything having to do with leak when they found it they would cover it 100%. Another week and a half goes by and hear nothing. I stop and they want to show me how much carbon buildup is in the heads after they pull intake back off. Tell me ecodiesel not made for short trips to work. Yada yada avoiding issue but then say it could be some crush washers on the banjo bolt on turbo oil supply tube. They ordered washers, never pulled cab, and another week and a half later say its done and I get to pay for it another $539. Oh and I also am running amsoil and got them an extra gallon to put back in since I was almost off the dipstick. Gallon jug still in bed of truck unopened and truck is now full of oil. I had given them 1 quart before that. So I'm curious, how many quarts low is a dipstick reading maybe a quarter inch of oil? And what I really would like to know if anyone knows is if when you replace the turbo water feed hose do you have to touch the turbo oil supply tube?? Any info. would be greatly appreciated as they now have stung me for a total of $2600 in 2 months. I still have a cel, and still have oil in coolant and am not sure if oil leak is fixed as I just picked it up yesterday. I think they were trying to make me feel good that it was just those $2 washers because it could have been a cracked block. So what's another $500 bill right?

 

[longshot]

Hi all. So I had this same problem 1 week after I had the dealer flush my coolant system due to oil contamination from failed oil cooler. I replaced cooler flushed several times as best as I could and kept getting cel for 3-way coolant valve. Finally replaced valve also but still got cel so took to dealer to diagnose. They said they needed to flush coolant system so I let them and a week later I got the turbo coolant hose leak. My repair was a bargain I guess at $715 labor and $566 parts. Problem is when I took it home I kept smelling oil and or getting oil burning off the exhaust manifolds. I initially thought it was just residual oil from removing and replacing intake manifold but I noticed it was worse when accelerating from a stop and/or going uphill like oil was leaking out of the backside of the motor. It seemed to lessen probably because the oil level was dropping and so I drove it to work a couple days and then headed out of town on vacation. Was pulling a 6000lb. trailer on a 70 degree day up a 7% grade got maybe 20 miles out of town and that tube that comes up on the front driver side of motor blew off and truck went into limp mode. Switched trucks sent eco back to town with my mother she told them about limp mode and that there was oil residue all the way under truck even on safety chains on trailer. Dealer noted customer states limp mode and fluid leak. They cleaned egr of soot said that was reason for limp mode and never addressed oil leak. Got back from vacation picked it up, drove it a couple days parked it and decided it needed to go back to dealer. Took it in with no appointment and gave them 2 whole weeks before I called and they hadn't even touched it. Then they said they needed to lift the cab to find leak. I said no, went to pick it up was going to take to a shop 2 hrs. north and they talked me into leaving it. I said there was no way they didn't cause the oil leak when they fixed the turbo coolant hose. They said if they touched anything having to do with leak when they found it they would cover it 100%. Another week and a half goes by and hear nothing. I stop and they want to show me how much carbon buildup is in the heads after they pull intake back off. Tell me ecodiesel not made for short trips to work. Yada yada avoiding issue but then say it could be some crush washers on the banjo bolt on turbo oil supply tube. They ordered washers, never pulled cab, and another week and a half later say its done and I get to pay for it another $539. Oh and I also am running amsoil and got them an extra gallon to put back in since I was almost off the dipstick. Gallon jug still in bed of truck unopened and truck is now full of oil. I had given them 1 quart before that. So I'm curious, how many quarts low is a dipstick reading maybe a quarter inch of oil? And what I really would like to know if anyone knows is if when you replace the turbo water feed hose do you have to touch the turbo oil supply tube?? Any info. would be greatly appreciated as they now have stung me for a total of $2600 in 2 months. I still have a cel, and still have oil in coolant and am not sure if oil leak is fixed as I just picked it up yesterday. I think they were trying to make me feel good that it was just those $2 washers because it could have been a cracked block. So what's another $500 bill right?

Yup, i removed mine. Im pretty sure its in the way. Maybe its "possible". I dont have a pic that shows it

 

[longshot]

I dont seem to be able to find all my pics. Maybe someone else has some. One pic shows the turbo removed. The red circle is the coolant banjo to turbo. The green circle is the other side of the same hose. Its a banjo to the block. The other pic has a green arrow pointed towards the turbo and the intake manifold is removed. The same coolant banjo to block is circled in green. I looks like its deeper into the "V" than the first pic but its the same hose.

 

[TDRAM73]

I dont seem to be able to find all my pics. Maybe someone else has some. One pic shows the turbo removed. The red circle is the coolant banjo to turbo. The green circle is the other side of the same hose. Its a banjo to the block. The other pic has a green arrow pointed towards the turbo and the intake manifold is removed. The same coolant banjo to block is circled in green. I looks like its deeper into the "V" than the first pic but its the same hose.

Ok. So looking at part numbers the mechanic installed (6) 4720704 Sealing Washers when replacing the turbo water feed hose, and he installed (2) 68229382AA banjo washers when he replaced the crush washers on turbo oil supply tube. When I type these two different part numbers into the computer they come up as being the same thing. 1 under Ram Chrysler OEM and 1 under just Chrysler OEM?? Does this make sense? Are you saying the oil supply tube and coolant supply tube are one in the same? I guess I don't even know how the cooling works to turbo. Is it oil cooled or water cooled or both? Sorry I'm not familiar with turbo diesels much let alone this ecodiesel, I'm just an ex-motorcycle mechanic who couldn't make a living at it so had to become a delivery driver!

 

[longshot]

Ok. So looking at part numbers the mechanic installed (6) 4720704 Sealing Washers when replacing the turbo water feed hose, and he installed (2) 68229382AA banjo washers when he replaced the crush washers on turbo oil supply tube. When I type these two different part numbers into the computer they come up as being the same thing. 1 under Ram Chrysler OEM and 1 under just Chrysler OEM?? Does this make sense? Are you saying the oil supply tube and coolant supply tube are one in the same? I guess I don't even know how the cooling works to turbo. Is it oil cooled or water cooled or both? Sorry I'm not familiar with turbo diesels much let alone this ecodiesel, I'm just an ex-motorcycle mechanic who couldn't make a living at it so had to become a delivery driver!

The turbo has oil to the bearings and then the CHRA is water cooled. 2 different lines. The washers dont make sense. 2 washers for each banjo. The coolant line banjo bolt to the block is bigger so it needs different washers. Dont really remember the other washer sizes but they should have pressure tested the coolant system before buttoning it all back up since it is a PITA.

 

[longshot]

Well I have another coolant leak but its slow. Either the same hose or its a head gasket :-(

 

[TDRAM73]

The turbo has oil to the bearings and then the CHRA is water cooled. 2 different lines. The washers dont make sense. 2 washers for each banjo. The coolant line banjo bolt to the block is bigger so it needs different washers. Dont really remember the other washer sizes but they should have pressure tested the coolant system before buttoning it all back up since it is a PITA.

They did actually pressure test coolant system overnight and said it was good. However they didn't check for oil leaks apparently and if they did undo that banjo bolt on oil supply line then they just reused old crush washers and called it good. That is my suspicion but I can't prove it unless I can show them somehow in service procedure that when replacing turbo coolant inlet tube the oil line has to be removed also. I just can't fathom that they were right there and didn't touch that oil banjo bolt and it started leaking immediately after.

 

[TDRAM73]

Well I have another coolant leak but its slow. Either the same hose or its a head gasket :-(

Oh man that sucks. Either one is not good. I asked dealer if they could replace my coolant hose with stainless steel or some sort of upgrade and they claimed that they had to use mopar replacement part. I guess this way it will be covered under warranty. This whole process has made me hesitant and lose confidence in truck though. I'm starting to consider getting rid of it if I can get all of the bugs worked out. I do love the truck but that oil cooler failure opened up a can of worms. It does have 155k on it as well.

 

[TDRAM73]

That stuff is long gone along with EGR and everything else. I guess it would be harder for the tech with all that stuff on and removing it is a PITA.

Longshot so what does it cost to do an egr delete etc? I'm way out of warranty and already have a GDE tune which needs to be updated actually. That is the last thing the dealer told me before they gave me the oil leak was that my ECM was causing CEL so thinking if I get ECM update for $50 maybe they can set me up for deleted setup at same time?