Turbo water coolant feed tube failure

[Tkhill04]

I just put a brand new fully deleted engine in at 106000k miles and 10,000 later I have this same leak. Which Chrysler told my mechanic they couldn’t find the hose so we could replace it when we did the engine. This is the biggest piece of shit ever made.

 

[longshot]

I just put a brand new fully deleted engine in at 106000k miles and 10,000 later I have this same leak. Which Chrysler told my mechanic they couldn’t find the hose so we could replace it when we did the engine. This is the biggest piece of shit ever made.

Its not that bif of a deal to replace the hose if you are fully deleted. Remove the intake and replace with silicone hose

 

[Aganetha77]

Mine was the turbo coolant feed line, too. I think you got ripped off, though. Its not that hard to get to. Remove top harness, injector hard lines, turbo elbow, and intake manifold. Then its right there.

I think I might have the same problem. Do I have to remove all this to see the problem? Or how can I be sure??

 

[longshot]

Yes. The coolant will be leaking down the back of the engine on the drivers side. The flow will increase when you increase engine speed. Remove the drivers fender liner and have someone rev the engine while you look in there

 

[PresbyterianBen]

My 1500 is in the shop right now getting this repair done. The mechanic is assessing as to go with a new part or replace with a silicone hose..

 

[longshot]

The part is like $100

 

[PresbyterianBen]

The part is like $100

Do you know of any aftermarket for this hose? Maybe silicone? Thanks!

 

[longshot]

The hose has banjos on the ends. You need to remove the old hose and clamp a new hose onto the hose ends. I don't remember the hose ID. Regular silicon coolant hose is probably fine but I would get something quality. The higher the temp rating, the better.

 

[PresbyterianBen]

My mechanic replaced the hose with silicone and replaced the three way valve all for $780.00

He did my delete for $2,250.00

 

[TC Diesel]

I did some rough math, $2250.00 at $2.5 PGM Both gas and diesel .Diesel Avg 20MPG and Gas 13MPG it will take 45,000 miles of driving to break even. We all know Diesel cost More than gas so it take 50,000 miles before the break even on delete alone, add your $780 and your looking at 70,000 mile break even point.

 

[PresbyterianBen]

I average 27mpg and can tow more than gas. The $780 was an additional repair. 140k miles will have repairs.

 

[TC Diesel]

All HWY, No 3.0 avg 27MPG DD use. and if I was to use Gas HWY the difference would be the same....and No ED avg 27MPG unless its 2WD RC/SB strip down and lives in FL. L-O-M is pegging the needle?

 

[PresbyterianBen]

4*4 4 door

 

[PresbyterianBen]

also, I live in the appalachian mountains

 

[TC Diesel]

Its commonly called LOM Lie-O-Meter. The mileage is the only truthful reading.

None the less mileage for AVG speed 33MPH WOW.

 

[PresbyterianBen]

Your logic is lacking as much as your tact is.

 

[TC Diesel]

I can't see your logic at Avg speed of 33MPH is consider normal for MPG in your picture...

 

[PresbyterianBen]

33mph is highway and city. I don’t have a bell shaped curve with the mean, mode, median, standard diviations etc, but I do agree the computer is on the higher side of average, thus why adjusted from 31.7mpg (computer) to 27mpg.

Another thing, if one were to have a bad EGR, what would make since for them to do? Spend thousands on another one? Or delete? Modern diesels and gas for that matter will have repairs; break even analysis are much more involved. Knock the the dust off the cost accounting books.

 

[TC Diesel]

I would delete just like you did......If memory serves Me I believe the MPG is the last 250 miles or so, It re-calibrates....I do agree the ED gets great Mileage.... I have customers with 500K+ miles and 8000+hrs on trucks running factory emissions, So asking the 3.0 to go 200K miles trouble free should be do-able, but its rare for the 3.0.

I was just roughly doing the #s.. but I'm glad to see it looks like you have hero build/built 3.0.

 

[Chip120]

The turbo has oil to the bearings and then the CHRA is water cooled. 2 different lines. The washers dont make sense. 2 washers for each banjo. The coolant line banjo bolt to the block is bigger so it needs different washers. Dont really remember the other washer sizes but they should have pressure tested the coolant system before buttoning it all back up since it is a PITA.

Where would I go to get the washers.. I am going to start the repair tonight