I have a system from enlight automotive. It's very similar to the one from another higher end place I think RetroShop or something like that, anyways I've had mine for about a year and a half and it's been fantastic. I have 55w ballast which I don't think are available anymore and the 8k (35w)...
I had gotten a bak roll-x when I first got my truck, I absolutely loved it. Only one problem the bed rails have an overhang for the tailgate cap and if they get bent down at all it will catch your tailgate cap when closing. Not that big of a deal, it just happened when walking on the bed rails...
I actually just got this code last night, only showing as a historical code though, not active or pending, my Def gauge is at about 5/8. I haven't tried resetting it and don't really want to. Think i'll drive it as is and see if it goes away in the 40x key cycles without fault for a code to go...
I actually ordered mine and specifically wanted the 3.55, and I was plenty happy. But things change and I just feel with the current tires the truck struggles a bit, I mean it does fine, but it COULD be happier, obviously rolling resistance will do that on a high MPG vehicle of any sort.
Contrary to your observations I put an aggressive m/t Tire about an inch and a half larger diameter from factory and I wish I had the 3.92, I think the truck would be a lot happier. It is nearly never in 8th, almost impossible to hold at normal speeds before the switch, and the rolling...
It's a low tolerance high efficiency engine with 10,000 mile oil change intervals with a 2.5gal oil capacity, this all comes from the synthetic oil, no Dino oil here. Consider this is a euro engine and high capacities with quality synthetics are the standard practice.
Barney I would suggest doing stand still regeneration's for you if you don't have the time to jump onto the highway, hold at 1800 or greater rpm's while parked and the truck will actively regenerate. It takes about 10 minutes but it beats going for a 30 min unnecessary drive. Anyways once it...
Not sure about the Warranty, it's under factory Warranty still. I have a 2015 I've put 41,xxxmiles on it and it has only required general maintenance, tires, oil, oil and fuel Filters, differential fluids, lots of fuel and washer fluid. Can't ask much more than that of any vehicle.
I think it ran about $235 but could be mistaken, it has a full morimoto harness for power, custom aluminum resistors with heat sinks for longevity, and a very nice inline capacitor. It's a great system, a bit beyond what retrofit shop offers. I have 8k (35w) bulbs and the upgraded 55w ballast...
It's a pretty tight fit inside the headlight housing I think to do an led high or low lamp you would need to use the ribbon style or you will basically have to run without the entire dust cover on back because of the size hole you would need drilled for the fan and heat sink style. I run a high...
I think that the biggest flaw to at home major maintenance or Repair to this truck is the Turbo being under the firewall requiring the cab to be removed. If it's unrelated to the Turbo? I think the average Joe has a fair chance aside from the lack of documentation. But once the Turbo or intake...
I'd be on the fence between letting them buy it back if it compensates me enough factoring in two years of depreciation I paid. Otherwise i'll figure it'll drop our MPG to about 24 highway for their "fix" which then we get advertised MPG reimbursement like they had to do for false advertised...