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It's the part of the crank position sensor that turns with the crank.

If the code is still popping up, the issue isn't fixed. If it is "lingering" in the permanent codes, but not an active code, then just needs to be driven for a few days until the computer can "see" the problem has been fixed and it will remove the code from the permanent list.

Then, if all the other good suggestions don't "pan out", all I can think is to inspect the wiring harness for rubbing or other damage.

Based on your description, sounds like the nut connecting the fuel tube/manifold to the injector is what needs tightening. While you're at it, I would check all the rest of them as well.

This may seem like a dumb question, but when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

How long did you drive at highway speeds? When I used to get this message, I would have to drive for 10+ min before the DPF was hot enough to start the burn-off. Once it started, the dash would display the percentage as it went down - 10% increments. Putting more load on the engine, such as...

Also, check out the thread: Wanted OBD2 Tool With Forced DPF Regen Has some different tools that can be used to force regen.

Your DPF is "full", meaning that it is restricting exhaust flow and needs a regen to burn of all the collected soot. Yes, the dealer can trigger a regen, but will likely say you also need a bunch of parts for a bunch of money. You can do it yourself but will need a unit to connect to OBD port...

I've been running a Sofa King tune for 50k-60k miles now with no issues (none caused by the tune, anyway). Truck runs cleaner and gets better MPG than the factory tune. Others on this forum are running GDE or MRT - no issues.

Sounds like it could be injector codes. If that is what the dealer is referring to, each of your old injectors had a specific code to be programmed into the computer. Changing the injectors means a new set of codes. If the tag that was on the injector can't be read, that would cause an issue.

Watched it. When he got to the Alpha OBD part, very detailed. Thank you for sharing that!

Welcome to the group. "Your distinctiveness will be added to our own" (lol).

Sounds like the heat exchanger is leaking. Essentially R2 the exchanger, flush coolant and change oil.

In addition to autoX's comments: It's a boost pressure blow off valve. Much like what is seen in movies such as Fast and Furious where the engine is revved and then the boost pressure is released to the outside for visual effect. On our ecodiesels it is the same function, but far less...

I have a '15, so don't know if the set up is similar. I had this problem after a major repair: The connection of the intake air hose to the throttle body has three points that are supposed to engage. If only 1 or two are "clicked in", it's not sealing and you are losing boost pressure.

I have a Banks Derringer, ended up buying a tune anyway. Now it's just an expensive boost/air density gauge. I recommend you save your time and money and go straight for a good tune, there's a few to choose from.

Some time back, I was able to purchase extended back covers for my headlight assemblies. I'm sorry, I don't recall the brand, but some i-net searching should turn some up. My biggest hurdle with going LED in my projectors was that my truck monitors current draw for burned out bulbs. I have...

Peter, DEF consumption will vary, but somewhere in the 700-900 miles per gallon seems to be normal. The DEF tank on the trucks is 8 gallons (US). I have seen much discussion on oil changes and oils to use. The general consensus is not to go the 10k mi between changes. I do mine at about 8k...

Howe's and Power Service have good in my Ecodiesel - 160k mi and counting.

I see. If that happened to me, I'd probably feel the same way. Interesting to note (not trying to add insult to injury), on my SFT tunes/updates, the SCR has always been on (DEF usage).