I'm thinking that, while your truck was in, the dealer flashed your ECM with the latest malware, er, I mean, program. Ask them if they did that, and if so, my recommendation is: Nod, say "ok, thanks", leave, and go get yourself an aftermarket tune.
Unfortunately, it does sound right. The tone wheel is sandwiched between the flex plate and the crankshaft. The trans has to come out to access it, that's why it's so expensive. This happened to me a few years ago. There is an ECM update available (dealer) for this. Essentially, it tells...
I get Wix oil & air filters and MicroGard fuel filter (made by Wix) from O'Reilly, and Rotella T6 from Walmart (about $27/gal). I use Lucas synth oil additive which I also get at Walmart. Cost is about $100 with the Lucas.
Hello,
I have a 2015 w/ 172k on it. Here's what I do/ have done:
-SofaKing stage 1 tune
-Oil changes at 7-8k miles w/ Rotella T6, Valvoline Premium Blue, or Delo full synthetic
- Been adding Lucas synth oil additive since purchase @ 26k mi (2gal oil, 2qt Lucas)
-Always, always, always use...
The main thing is to drive at constant freeway speed for 30-45min to get the DPF up to temp where it can burn off the soot. The SCR will also clear with heavy footed acceleration, once the DPF flows better.
Properly seating the two connectors likely solved the root issue(s). Try driving the truck out on the freeway to get your EGT up to where the DPF can burn off soot. Driving up into the mountains (if available) works, on the freeway towing a trailer, engaging "Tow/Haul" mode, or using the shift...
That looks like the vacuum pot controlling the EGR flow valve. You're right, the bushing in the eyelet has failed causing a lot of play. Looks to me like it's causing the valve to be open a little more than it should, allowing some extra exhaust gas into the intake.
Are you losing any coolant? If so, my thought process is: Cracked EGR cooler sends coolant through the crossover tube, steam cleaning it and the MAP sensor (and the intake manifold some). This causes bubbles in your cooling system, affecting the coolant bypass valve (on passenger frame rail...
Did you replace both o-rings on the little plastic crossover tube on the pump? When I replaced my water pump last August, I recall the main pump bolts get a thread sealant because they go into the water jacket, and a specific torque on the bolts.
FRavencroft: The software update came about from the common tone ring failures. Massive oil loss isn't necessarily associated with tone ring failure; It is, however located right there by the rear main so it's possible.
Another possibility for your situation could be related to the turbo oil...
Based on what the video shows, that looks like it could be tone ring failure (mounted between crank and flex plate) that damaged the sensor, which ended up "taking out" part of the aluminum pan up by the rear main bearing/seal.
If I might make a suggestion...
There is a one-piece replacement tube with braided hose section available. It looks to be significantly more durable, but the catch is getting the metal oil line out of the way for removal of the cooling line's turbo side banjo bolt. I had this done on my truck...