Are you losing any coolant? If so, my thought process is: Cracked EGR cooler sends coolant through the crossover tube, steam cleaning it and the MAP sensor (and the intake manifold some). This causes bubbles in your cooling system, affecting the coolant bypass valve (on passenger frame rail...
Did you replace both o-rings on the little plastic crossover tube on the pump? When I replaced my water pump last August, I recall the main pump bolts get a thread sealant because they go into the water jacket, and a specific torque on the bolts.
FRavencroft: The software update came about from the common tone ring failures. Massive oil loss isn't necessarily associated with tone ring failure; It is, however located right there by the rear main so it's possible.
Another possibility for your situation could be related to the turbo oil...
Based on what the video shows, that looks like it could be tone ring failure (mounted between crank and flex plate) that damaged the sensor, which ended up "taking out" part of the aluminum pan up by the rear main bearing/seal.
If I might make a suggestion...
There is a one-piece replacement tube with braided hose section available. It looks to be significantly more durable, but the catch is getting the metal oil line out of the way for removal of the cooling line's turbo side banjo bolt. I had this done on my truck...
CVR_71,
It won't hurt to look under the HPFP cover. My first thought is: There's a fuel line coming off the bottom of the pump that goes to the driver's side fuel rail. That line is a single use item. The pump side of that tube has a crush type seal and it's possible the tech reused it or...
Tinker,
Some observations from my Ecodiesel ownership (168k mi and counting):
- I like and use Lucas products, BUT I have stopped using the fuel additive in my Ecodiesel (still use in gas engines). In short, the EGTs when driving are, apparently, frequently not high enough to fully burn the...
Another possibility is the EGR cooler has a crack and the coolant is leaking into the tube that goes to the intake. In this scenario, the coolant would be cycled through the engine in vapor form and out the tailpipe. Never to be seen on the dipstick or on the ground. Check if your truck has...
If the code is still popping up, the issue isn't fixed. If it is "lingering" in the permanent codes, but not an active code, then just needs to be driven for a few days until the computer can "see" the problem has been fixed and it will remove the code from the permanent list.
Based on your description, sounds like the nut connecting the fuel tube/manifold to the injector is what needs tightening. While you're at it, I would check all the rest of them as well.
How long did you drive at highway speeds? When I used to get this message, I would have to drive for 10+ min before the DPF was hot enough to start the burn-off. Once it started, the dash would display the percentage as it went down - 10% increments. Putting more load on the engine, such as...
Your DPF is "full", meaning that it is restricting exhaust flow and needs a regen to burn of all the collected soot. Yes, the dealer can trigger a regen, but will likely say you also need a bunch of parts for a bunch of money. You can do it yourself but will need a unit to connect to OBD port...
I've been running a Sofa King tune for 50k-60k miles now with no issues (none caused by the tune, anyway). Truck runs cleaner and gets better MPG than the factory tune. Others on this forum are running GDE or MRT - no issues.
Sounds like it could be injector codes. If that is what the dealer is referring to, each of your old injectors had a specific code to be programmed into the computer. Changing the injectors means a new set of codes. If the tag that was on the injector can't be read, that would cause an issue.